Discover the coast of Cinq Terre

探索五渔村

G. Puccini – O Mio Babbino Caro – Piano Solo by Matthias Dobler

In the remote coast of Mediterranean, there is such an idyllic and peaceful land called Cinque Terre. It means Five Lands in Italien and they are five characteristic villages hugging the cliffs along a short stretch of the Ligurian coast in the Linguria area. The five villages are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The tortuous coastline, the villages on different levels of hillside, and the magnificent view of the surrounding hillsides constitues the Cinque Terre National Park which was listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

在遥远的地中海海岸有这样一片宁静而绝美的世外桃源。五渔村(Cinque Terre)在意大利语的意思是的五片土地,它们是利古利亚地区绵延在一段海岸线上的悬崖峭壁的五座村庄。这五个村庄分别是蒙特勒索,维尔那扎,科尔尼亚,马纳若拉和雷奥马乔里。绵长曲折的海岸线,错落有致的村庄和周围壮丽的山景构成了五渔村国家公园,该公园于1997年被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产。

I took the intercity train from Genova and arrived at this wonderland in the sunny and scorching afternoon of July 18, 2020. This was the small train station of Manarola hiding between two tunnels in the ridges. From the platform the touristes could overlook the azure water of the sea. All the 5 villages are connected by the train line so it is quite convenient to visit all of them. Due to time limit, I only visited the two villages, Manarola and Riomaggiore this time.

鄙人从热那亚乘坐城际列车,于2020年7月18日的炎炎晌午到达了这片神奇土地。马纳若拉的小火车站藏匿于山脊里的两条隧道之间。在月台上游客便可俯视这片碧蓝的海水。五鱼村所有5个村庄均由铁路线连接,因此前往所有村庄都非常方便。由于时间限制,这次我只游览了马纳若拉和雷奥马乔里这两个村庄。

Manarola

The village of Manarola was accessible from the train station through an underground tunnel in just 5 minutes. The houses of the village were painted with different colors and were built on the precipitous cliff dominating the Mediterranean Sea since the start of the village. The arrangment of houses had highlighed the unique style of Cinq terre.

从火车站通过地下隧道仅需5分钟即可到达马纳若拉村。村庄里的屋壁被涂上了五颜六色不同的颜色。自村庄建立之际,这些历史悠久的建筑就屹立在悬崖峭壁上俯瞰地中海。这样的布局风格彰显出五鱼村独特的魅力。

Beyond the coast, there was a small road leading to the restaurant at the hill top. On the halfway of the road, touristes could take the panaromic picture of Manarola at this place. It was a perfect scenic viewpoint but crowded. But everyone is patient enough to take this iconic picture of the village.

彼岸有一条通往山顶餐厅的小路。途中游客可以在这个观景点拍摄马纳若拉的全景照片。这是一个完美的风景拍摄点,游客接踵而至,将自己的身影与这片风景永久留存。

Walking slowly downwards from the steps, it was the dock of the village, harbouring many small boats. On the hill top, there was a restaurant called Nessun Dorma. It was a great place to order one drink like limoncello spritz cocktail and enjoy the beautiful view of Manarola.

Cinq Terre is famous for the luxuriant verdant lemon trees. The Nobel laureate Eugenio Montale has described it with the beautiful words like this,

The little path that winds down
along the slope plunges through cane-tufts
and opens suddenly into the orchard
among the moss-green trunks
of the lemon trees.

Except lemon drinks, Manarola also has the famous local wine, called Sciacchetrà which should be tasted by touristes.

缓步走下岸边台阶,此处便是村庄的码头,停泊了许多小船。在远处山顶上,有一家名为Nessun Dorma的餐厅。这里是点一杯柠檬鸡尾酒并欣赏马纳若拉美景的好地方。 五渔村以茂盛翠绿的柠檬树而闻名。诺贝尔奖获得者埃乌杰尼奥·蒙塔莱用唯美的文字如此描述,

蜿蜒的小路

沿着斜坡深入甘蔗丛

在苔绿色的柠檬树干之间

那个果园突然乍现

除柠檬饮料外,马纳若拉还有当地著名的葡萄酒,称为Sciacchetrà,游客应当品尝一下。

The glamour of Cinq Terre also includes its wavy sea shore. Its upswelling tide pounds on the shore and the white waves flow over and hit on rocks like heaps of snow. At the dock of Manarola, there is one divided safety area for people to swim and experience the wildness of sea. I even saw some brave teenagers diving from the rock top into water; really crazy!

五渔村的魅力少不了它的波涛汹涌的海岸。海岸的岩石上,惊涛拍岸卷起千堆雪。在马纳若拉的码头,有一个划出的安全区供人们涉水挑战大海并体验大海的狂野。这里甚至可以看到一些勇敢的少年从岩石顶跳入水中,令人心惊肉跳!

I had also spent 1 hour to walk in the village. Manarola may be the oldest of the towns in the Cinque Terre so there are many historical buildings here. Since their houses were built along the mountain, most of the time, I was padding along the tortuous mountain trail. Their houses had the decorations of warm color like red pink, and yellow.

我还花了1个小时在村子里散步。马纳若拉可能是五渔村最古老的城镇,这里有许多古老建筑。由于房屋都是依山建造,所以大部分时间我都沿着曲折的山路徐徐前行。他们的房屋装饰的是暖色调,如红色,粉红色和黄色。

This is one stone arch bridge in the village leading to one local residence. This bridge straddling one babbling brook had a long history. On the mountain top, there is a old church called San Lorenzo which could be traced to 1338.

这是村里的一座石拱桥,通向一个当地居民住所。这座建在潺潺小溪上的桥颇有历史了。在山顶上,有一座古老的教堂叫San Lorenzo,其历史可以追溯到1338年。

Via dell’Amore

There are many paths connecting the 5 villages of Cinq Terre. This is one famous walking trail between Manarola and Riomaggiore called Via dell’Amore, “Love’s Trail”. Many lovers had put locks with their names on the railings of the trail to memorize their precious loves. I firstly planned to walk from Manarola to Riomaggiore through the trail. Unfortunately, due to coronovirus, this trail was locked so I had to take train instead. At the train station, I really felt pity because I had to leave this beautiful place and I never knew what is my next time to come here.

许多小径连接五渔村的5个村庄。这是一条在马纳若拉和雷奥马乔里之间的著名步行小径Via dell’Amore,称为“ 爱情小径”。许多恋人将刻有他们名字的锁锁在小径的栏杆上,以纪念他们珍贵的爱情。我原本计划从马纳若拉经由此路步行到雷奥马乔里。不幸的是,由于新冠病毒,这条路被封锁了,所以我不得不另辟蹊径。在火车站不由得感叹无限江山别时容易见时难。

Riomaggiore

When I arrived at Riomaggiore, it was nearly at dusk. There are many restaurants and bars in the village. I could smell the intoxicating scent of wine from the valley when I walked along the street. The colorful houses here are similar with the ones in Manarola. I did not visit many places here. I just sat on the bench at sea side and gazed at the village and its sea shore and enjoy this peaceful moment.

抵达里奥马焦雷时,已是近黄昏。村子内众多餐馆和酒吧粼次节比。所到之处,小巷中溢出了令人陶醉的酒香。这里色彩缤纷的房屋与Manarola的房屋及其相似。我在这里并未信步闲游。唯有静静坐在海边的长椅上,凝望着村庄及其海岸,享受这岁月静好。

At 8:45 pm, the sun started to fall down slowly. The setting sun illuminated totally the sea level and tinged the water and sky with gold. The stylish houses along the mountains were silhouetted against the sun. At this moment, all the touristes pressed the button of their camera to grasp this incredible beautiful view. The distant horizon line waded little by little under the afterglow of the setting sun, leaving behind the last faint golden color. The breeze hits the flutuating waves and scatters the glow into numerous stars.

戌时三刻,太阳开始缓缓降落。落日照亮了整个海平面,并将水天一线染成淡淡的金色。沿山而建的房屋映衬在余晖下。此刻,所有游客都按下了相机的按钮,抓拍这绝世美景。遥远的地平线在落日的余辉的照耀下随着时间的流逝在海面上一点点消散,留下最后一抹暗淡的金色。微微风触浪,散做满天星。

When the night resumed her reign, the sea shore of Cinq Terre falled into silence again. The skyline became a total darkness and the crowd gradually dissipated. The only remaining was the twinkle of distant lights of the village and the whisper of visitors who was not willing to miss every moment of this beautiful place.

夜幕缓缓降临,五渔村的海边再次陷入沉寂。天际线变得一片漆黑,喧闹的人群逐渐散去。唯一弥留的是远处村庄里的灯火阑珊,以及依依不舍的游客的悄声絮语。