The summer trip in the capital of Europe

欧盟之都夏日行

Victory

Brussels is the capital of European union and it is the first stop of my graduation trip in Low countries in September 2020. This was my first time of visiting Belgium and I had quite a high expectation of it. I took Flix Bus from Lille and it took around 1.5 hour to arrive at the city center of Brussel. When I was a child, I knew the legend story of the ‘Peeing Boy’. This time on my way, I really could not hold up the excitement in my heart.

布鲁塞尔是欧盟的首都,它也是我在低地国2020年9月毕业之旅的第一站。这是我第一次来比利时旅游,故此抱有很高的期待。 我从里尔乘坐 Flix巴士,大约 1.5 小时抵达布鲁塞尔市中心。 在我的孩提时代,我就知晓“撒尿小孩”的传奇故事。 路途上我便难以抑制心中的激动心情。

Palais de la Bourse

Brussel is famous of its architecture art. When I walked around the central boulevards, I took notice of its buildings which were somewhat similar of Paris. The first one is the former Brussels Stock Exchange building built in 1873. It combines the neo-Renaissance and Second Empire architectural styles. The Ionic column and entablature decorated with bas-relief is always my favorite. There is one interesting point: the two monumental lion sculptures on each side of the main entrance’s staircase represent the two stock market trends “bull and bear”.

布鲁塞尔以其建筑艺术而闻名。 当我在中央林荫大道上来回穿梭时,便感觉到它的建筑与巴黎的相似处。 我所见的第一眼是建于1873年的前布鲁塞尔证券交易所大楼。它结合了新文艺复兴和第二帝国的建筑风格。 艾奥尼亚柱和浅浮雕装饰的柱顶一直是我的最爱。 有一处很有意思:正门楼梯两边的两尊巨大的狮子雕塑代表了股市中的牛市和熊市。

Grand Place

In each city of Belgium, the unique city square in the city center justifies the aesthetic wealth and highly successful blending of architectural and artistic styles that characterizes the culture and society of Low countries. The square in Brussel called Grand place has been a marketplace since the 12th century. It is an enclosed area and surrounded by guild houses and market halls, which are still mostly built of wood. It is highly recommended to have a drink at the cafeteria in the square and admire the splendid beauty at the same time. The square has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.

比利时的每个城市中心独特的广场彰显了低地国家文化以及建筑美学和艺术风格的高度成功融合。 布鲁塞尔的广场被称为大广场,自 12 世纪以来一直是城市的集市。 这里是一个封闭的区域,周围环绕着中世纪公会房屋和市场大厅,大多是用木头建造的。 强烈建议在广场的咖啡厅小酌一杯,欣赏四周华丽的风景。该广场于 1998 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。

The Brussels City Museum

It is a cobbled rectangular market square, surrounded by Baroque guildhalls in the west and the city’s Town Hall in the south, and the Brussels City Museum in the north. In this picture, the neo-Gothic building with steep-sloping roof and spires is the King’s House in 1860 which houses the Brussels City Museum. It collects paintings, sculptures, and tapestries from medieval times. It is called the King’s house because the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V was crowned King of Spain in 1516. This building has a neoclassical arched portal and is decorated with the baroque style’s small elliptical oeil-de-boeuf windows. Many green-colored bronze statues are easy to be identified and have a stark contrast with the grey color of the main body.

它是一个鹅卵石铺就的长方形集市广场,西边是巴洛克风格的工会大厅,南边是城市的市政厅,北边是布鲁塞尔市博物馆。 在这张照片中,装饰有陡峭屋顶和尖顶的新哥特式建筑是 1860 年的国王居所,里面是布鲁塞尔市博物馆。 它收集了中世纪的绘画、雕塑和挂毯。 因为神圣罗马帝国皇帝查理五世于 1516 年加冕为西班牙国王,所以被称为国王之家。这座建筑有一个新古典主义风格的拱形门户,并装饰着巴洛克风格的小椭圆法式天窗。 许多绿色青铜雕像清晰可见,与主体的灰色形成鲜明对比。

This square is called the ‘Grand place’ but obviously it is not so large. At this moment, I was standing in the center of the square on the historical stone-paved ground. Usually this place is extremely crowded however during this special period of coronavirus, most tourists are forbidden to coming Europe and I seemed to be the only one existence here. Behind me, a number of guildhalls and a few private houses are reconstructed after the bombardment of 1695. Their stylish golden facades with their rich sculptural decoration including pilasters and balustrades and lavishly designed gables are based on my favorite Italian Baroque with some Flemish influences. I enjoyed the special feeling of standing or sitting in squares and looking around the old buildings like I have done it before in Venice, Paris, Florence etc. Feeling the culture of the city is the meaning of travel.

这个广场被称为“大广场”,但显然它并没有那么宏大。 此刻,我站在广场中心历史悠久的石板地上。 通常这个地方人潮涌动,但是在这个特殊的新冠时期,大多数游客被禁止进入欧洲,我似乎成为这里独一无二的存在。 在我身后,这些工会大厅和私人住宅在 1695 年的轰炸后重建。它们时尚的金色外墙以及丰富的雕塑装饰,包括壁柱和栏杆以及设计奢华的山墙均是我最喜欢的在佛朗德地区影响下的意大利巴洛克风格。 我喜欢在威尼斯、巴黎、佛罗伦萨等地静静地坐在广场上环顾老建筑的特殊感觉。感受城市的文化韵味是才是旅行的意义。

The Town Hall

The tallest building in the square is the town hall which was built between 1401 and 1455. It is very large building and is difficult to take the picture of its whole appearance. I tried to zoom in and record the numerous small statues on the façade clearly in my camera. These statues represent the local nobility and saints. The most spectacular thing is the 96 meters tall tower and is capped by a 2.7 meters statue of Saint Michael slaying a demon. Saint Michael is the patron saint of the city.

广场上最高的建筑是建于1401年至1455年之间的市政厅。这是一座非常庞大的建筑,很难拍下它的整体外观。 我试着将镜头放大,把立面上无数的小雕像清晰地记录在我的相机里。 这些雕像代表了当地的贵族和圣徒。 最壮观的是96米高的塔楼,塔顶是2.7米高的圣迈克屠魔雕像,圣迈克也是这座城市的守护神。

House of the Dukes of Brabant

When I was in the square, I was so busy in scrutinizing the every details of the buildings of different styles that I felt only two eyes were not enough for me. On the eastern side of the square, it’s one building close to French style, the House of the Dukes of Brabant. It is actually a set of seven guild-houses combined behind the same monumental façade and named after the nineteen busts of dukes of Brabant on the facade’s pilasters. It currently houses a restaurant and the square’s only hotel. Visitors could find the golden seals of the merchant trades that worked here centuries ago so it represents “Recovery of Trade and Industry.”

在广场上我忙于审视不同风格的建筑的每一个细节,顿时有种目不暇接的感觉。 在广场的东侧,是一座接近法式风格的建筑——布拉班特公爵府。 它实际上是一组由七个公会房屋组成的合体,位于同一巨大的立面后面,并以正立面壁柱上的 19 尊布拉班特公爵半身像命名。 它目前设有一家餐厅和广场上唯一的旅馆。 游客可以在这里找到几个世纪前在此间忙碌的商贸协会的金印,这些建筑也代表着“贸易和工业的复苏”。

In the south east corner of the square, there is a block of houses named in French. The house with a golden statue of a rider mounting on a horse is named of L’arbre d’or which means the tree of gold. It is House of the Corporation of Brewers dated from 1698 and is now converted into a brewery museum. Another houses at the right side of the L’arbre d’or is named of Le Cygne which is a romantic name, means swan. However, in the history of 17th century, it was the House of the Corporation of Butchers. It is very famous because Karl Marx wrote the Manifesto of the Communist Party in this house.

在广场的东南角,有一栋皆是法语名的房屋。 这座装饰着一尊骑在马上的骑手的金色雕像的房子法语叫做 L’arbre d’or ,意思是金树。 它是 1698 年的啤酒公司,现在改建为啤酒博物馆。 L’arbre d’or 右侧的另一座房子名曰Le Cygne,这是一个浪漫的名字,意思是天鹅。 然而,在 17 世纪时期它是屠夫公司。 它在历史上大名鼎鼎,卡尔马克思曾在这座房子里撰写了共产党宣言。

The monument of Everard t’Serclaes

The house at the rightest side is the Maison de l’Étoile which means the house of the star. At the archway of this houses towards the square, the monument of Everard t’Serclaes can be found on its wall. It was created in memory of Everard t’Serclaes, a Belgian hero, who led the local people dispelling the Flemish troops out of the city. He breathed his last breath and died in the Maison de l’Étoile. It is said that touching the hand of his statue brings good luck and health so don’t miss it when you visit Brussel.

上图最右边的房子是 Maison de l’Étoile,意思是星辰居。 在这栋房屋通往广场的拱门处,可以在墙上发现 Everard t’Serclaes 的纪念碑。 它是为了纪念英雄 Everard t’Serclaes 带领当地人民将佛兰德军队驱赶出城市。 他生前最后的弥留时刻就是在星辰居。 据说触摸他的雕像的手会带来好运和健康,所以访问布鲁塞尔时一定不要错过它。

The Royal Gallery of Saint Hubert

Brussel is good place of shopping as well. In the city center, there is one shopping arcades which is similar to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. The Galleries Royal is a long gallery of two upper floors designed by Belgian architect Jean-Pierre Cluysenaer, and established in 1846 as a fashionable place for shopping and chocolate tasting. Belgium is very famous for its chocolate so around this area you can find many stores of the most prestigious Belgian chocolate brands for example Pierre Marcolini.

布鲁塞尔也是一个购物天堂。 在市中心,有一个类似于米兰维多利亚长廊的购物商场。 这个皇家画廊是由比利时建筑师让-皮埃尔·克鲁伊森纳设计的两层长廊,建于 1846 年,是游客购物和品尝巧克力的绝佳场所。 比利时以其巧克力而闻名天下,畅游此地遍寻例如 Pierre Marcolini等众多负有盛名的比利时巧克力品牌。

Here is the end of the gallery. We can find many Italian Renaissance architecture elements here, for example, the utilization of columns, pilasters, and entablatures as an integrated system. It has one arched glass-paned roof which allows sufficient sunlight coming in.

这是画廊的尽头洋溢着众多意大利文艺复兴时期的建筑元素,例如柱子、壁柱和柱顶等系统的使用。 它还拥有一个拱形的玻璃屋顶,让充分的阳光照射进来。

Manneken Pis

There are so many architecture master pieces in Brussels. However, when we talk about this city, the first impression will be this famous statue called Manneken Pis which means little pissing man. It is a naked little boy urinating into the fountain’s basin. The statue was designed by the sculptor Jérôme Duquesnoy and put in place in 1618. The Manneken Pis is located in the corner of one street, just a stone’s throw away from the Grand Place. It originates from the legend in the 14th century. Brussels was under siege by a foreign army who conceived of a plan to place explosive charges at the city walls. A little boy named Julianske happened to discover the plot. He urinated on the burning fuse and thus saved the city. Manneken Pis is dressed in different costumes and changed several times each week. It is an unique feature of this city. Honestly saying, at the first glance, I was a bit disappointed because the statue was too small and always surrounded by tourists…

布鲁塞尔有众多建筑杰作。 然而,当我们谈论这座城市时,第一印象一定是这座名为 Manneken Pis 的雕像,即撒尿小童。 小男孩肆无忌惮在喷泉的水池里小便的雕像由雕塑家 Jérôme Duquesnoy 设计,并于 1618 年安置在这里。撒尿小童位于一条街道的拐角处,距离大广场仅一箭之遥。 它起源于14世纪的传说。 当时布鲁塞尔遭到外国军队的围攻,他们策划在城墙上放置炸药的阴谋。 也许上天有眼一个名叫朱利安斯克的小男孩碰巧发现这一切。 他迅速在燃烧的导火索上小便,从而拯救了这座城市。如今撒尿小童身着不同的服装,每周都会更换几次。 这也成为了这座城市的独特之处。 不过乍一看,确实有点令人失望,这座雕像实在太小了,而且总是被趋之若鹜的游客围个里三层外三层……

After several hours’ walk, I decided to find a place to fill my stomach. This restaurant is called Nooedzee, Mer du Nord is a bit different with the usual ones. It has a very large blue name plaque with a symbol of fish on it so people will think that it is fish shop. All the tables are outside the store maybe because of coronavirus. Their menu is written in French on the blackboard by hands. People just order at the counter and tell them your names. Then the food is served based on your names. I tasted the fish soup with cheese, oyster with lemon and fried cod which is suggested by the staff. The food ingredient is extremely fresh but the amount is too small. Anyway this is my first taste in Belgium and it’s always imporatnt to keep a good mood..

几个时辰的奔波后,我决定找个地方大快朵颐一番。 这家名为Nooedzee, Mer du Nord的海鲜餐厅与通常的海鲜餐厅有些不同。它有一个很大的蓝色牌匾,上面有一个巨大的鱼的标志,路人们也许会误判它为鱼店。可能因为新冠疫情它所有的桌子都陈列在餐厅外面。 他们的菜单是用法语手写在黑板上的。 人们只是在柜台订购并告知店员你的名字。 然后根据姓名上菜。 我品尝了工作人员推荐的搭配奶酪的鱼汤、牡蛎和炸鳕鱼。 这里的食材确实非常新鲜,不过分量略少。 不管怎么,这是我在比利时的第一次的品尝, 保持好的心情才是最重要的。

The Place des Martyrs

In every city of Europe, there are many squares with hundred years history. You don’t need to look for them intentionally. When you pass by them occasionally, you will be amazed by their elegances. The Place des Martyrs is a historic square which name represents the martyrs of the September days of the Belgian Revolution of 1830. It symbolizes the sacrifice of 466 persons who died in the fights of September 1830 for the independence of Belgium from the United Kingdom of the Netherlands. This neoclassical square was designed in 1773. It is paved by cobble stone. Walking around the square, I could discover some monuments memorizing the heroes of Belgium.

在欧洲的每个城市,都有众多具有百年历史的广场。 无需刻意探寻也许当你偶遇之时,就会被这种优雅而折服。 这座烈士广场也是一个历史悠久的广场,其名代表 着1830 年比利时九月革命的烈士。它象征着 466 名在 1830 年 9 月为比利时脱离荷兰独立而战死的烈士。 这座新古典主义的广场最早设计于 1773 年,由鹅卵石铺成。 走在广场上,可以看到许多纪念比利时英雄的纪念碑。

The Congress Column 

Next, I was travelling along one street called Royale Street. There are many historical buildings relating to the creation of Belgium Kingdom and the royal family on this street. The first one is this high rising column that looks like Trajan’s Column in Rome. It commemorates the creation of the Belgian Constitution by the National Congress of 1830. It was erected between 1850 and 1859 according to a design by Joseph Poelaert. At the top of the column is a statue of Belgium’s first king Leopold I and at its base, the pedestal is surrounded by bronze statues personifying the four freedoms guaranteed under the Constitution including freedom of education, association, worship, and press. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier with an eternal flame lies at its foot. Brussel is the capital of Belgium so there will be some landmarks relating to government.

接下来,我沿着名曰皇家大街的主干道继续我的旅行。 这条街上有许多与比利时王国以及王室建立有关的历史建筑。 第一个便是这个神似罗马图拉真之柱的高耸的大立柱。它是为了纪念 1830 年国民议会制定的比利时宪法。它是根据约瑟夫·波拉尔特的设计于 1850 年至 1859 年之间竖立于此。 柱子顶部是比利时第一任国王利奥波德一世的雕像,基座周围环绕着青铜雕像,体现了基本宪法保障的教育、结社、宗教和言论等四项自由。燃烧着长明火焰的无名战士墓就在它的脚下。布鲁塞尔是比利时的首都,故此拥有大量与政府有关的地标。

Place Royale

Neoclassical architecture is very popular in Belgium during the period of Austrian occupation in the mid-18th century and existed through periods of French and Dutch occupation, until the birth of Independent Belgium. This royal square is a typic neoclassical architecture and built between 1775 and 1782. The Governor of the Austrian Netherlands, Prince Charles Alexander of Lorraine proposed to build it like the Place Stanislas in Nancy so its design follows the Place Stanislas with a statue in the center of the rectangular and symmetrical square surrounded by pavilions in the corner. The statue represents Godfrey of Bouillon the leader of the First Crusade waving the standard.

新古典主义建筑在 18 世纪中叶奥地利占领时期的比利时非常流行,并同时存在于法国和荷兰占领时期。 这座皇家广场是一座典型的新古典主义建筑,建于 1775 年至 1782 年之间。奥属荷兰总督洛林的查尔斯·亚历山大王子提议将其依照南锡的斯坦尼斯拉斯广场一样建造。因此其设计完全沿用了斯坦尼斯拉斯广场的理念,在对称的正方形的广场中央有一尊雕像 ,四角楼阁环抱。雕像代表第一次十字军东征的领袖戈弗雷挥舞着胜利旗帜。

Brussels Park

During the period of constructing the Royal square, Brussels Park is another part of the urban project as well. It is formerly known as the Royal Park because it lies on the site of the gardens of the former Palace of Coudenberg. This entrance is directly opposite to the Royal Palace of Brussels. It has a monumental fountain.

在建造皇家广场期间,布鲁塞尔公园也是城市项目的另一部分。 它以前被称为皇家公园,位于前库登堡宫花园的遗址上。 这个公园入口就在布鲁塞尔皇宫的正对面,有一个巨大的标志性喷泉。

The Royal Palace of Brussels

The royal palace of Brussels is just in the south of royal square. This area is the location of old Coudenberg Palace, a very old palatial that dated back to the Middle Ages but was ruined in a fire. The new palace is built on its original site. It is the official palace of the King and Queen of the Belgians and houses the services of the Grand Marshal of the Court, the King’s Head of Cabinet, the Head of the King’s Military Household and the Intendant of the King’s Civil List. The Palace is also the location of receptions of foreign Heads of State during official visits. However the king and his family don’t live here. Their residence is in the Royal Palace of Laeken in northern Brussels.

布鲁塞尔王宫就位于皇家广场的南面。 这个地区是旧库登堡宫的所在地,这是一座非常古老可以追溯到中世纪的宫殿,但在一场大火中被毁。 新宫殿建在原址上。 它是比利时国王和王后的官方所在地,同时也是法院内阁首脑、皇家军事首脑和文职大臣的工作场所。 布鲁塞尔王宫也是接待外国国家元首的官方地点。 然而,国王和他的家眷却不住在这里。他们的私人住所位于布鲁塞尔北部郊区的拉肯皇宫。

This building has an impressive façade. Its main color is gray with classical decoration and its style especially the flat roof really looks like a French building. The entrance of the palace is free and it’s worth of visiting it that records the history of Belgium. I enjoyed the cozy environment in this area. There are many open spaces. I could walk around freely and take the pictures in the preferred angle.

这座建筑的外观令人印象深刻。 它的主色调为灰色,古典的装饰风格。特别是平铺的屋顶感官上极其接近法式建筑。参观宫殿的是免费的,这座记录比利时历史的宫殿值得一游。 我很中意这片区域的舒适环境。放眼望去有诸多空地可以自由走动并以喜欢的角度进行拍摄。

The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium 

In this old royal district, there are many museums. The most representative one is the Royal Museums of Fine Arts. It collects over 20,000 drawings, sculptures, and paintings, which date from the early 15th century to the present. The museum was founded in 1801 by Napoleon Bonaparte. On its façade, 4 sculptures of figures atop the four main piers represent 4 forms of arts: Music, Architecture, Sculpture, and Painting. The three rondels represent the greatest Belgian artist at that time: Rubens, Van Ruysbroek, and Jean de Bologne.

这片曾经的皇家区域还包括众多博物馆。 最具代表性的是皇家美术博物馆。 它收集了从 15 世纪初至今的 20,000 多幅素描、雕塑和绘画作品。 该博物馆由拿破仑于 1801 年创立。 在正立面上的顶上4 个人物雕塑代表了 4 种艺术形式:音乐、建筑、雕塑和绘画。 这三个圆盘浮雕代表了当时最伟大的比利时艺术家鲁本斯、范鲁斯布鲁克和 博洛尼亚的让。

Landscape with the Fall of Icarus

The museum is famous of collection of Early Netherlandish painting. This is one of the Netherlandish master piece drawn by Pieter Bruegel the Elder. The theme of this painting derives from one famous Greek mythology. In the story, Icarus flies with wings made by his father Daedalus who uses feathers secured with beeswax. However he ignores his father’s warnings and flies too close to the sun, melting the wax, and falls into the sea and drowns. In this picture, his legs can be seen in the water just below the ship.

这个博物馆以收藏早期荷兰绘画而闻名。 这是荷兰画家老彼得·勃鲁盖尔绘制的杰作坠落的伊卡洛斯。 这幅画的主题来源于一个著名的希腊神话。 在故事中,伊卡洛斯用他的父亲代达罗斯制作的翅膀飞翔,代达罗斯用蜂蜡固定的羽毛。 然而他无视父亲的警告,飞得靠近太阳,从而融化了蜡掉进了海水里淹死了。 在这张名画中,可以看到他坠落之后的腿掉入船下方的水中。

Église Notre-Dame du Sablon

When I continued to walk along the Royal street, I passed by one small garden and took a short break inside it. Opposite the garden, there is one cathedral called the Church of Our Blessed Lady of the Sablon. It was built in the 15th century with a Brabantine Gothic exterior and two Baroque chapels. Numerous small turrets and pinnacles make it different with other churches. In Europe, there are so many churches so most of time tourists could only pass by and leave a glimpse on them.

继续沿着皇家大道前行,途中路过一个小花园,顺便稍作休息。花园对面是一座名为萨布隆圣母教堂的大教堂。 它建于 15 世纪,拥有布拉班哥特式外观和两个巴洛克式教堂。 众多的塔楼和小尖塔令它与其他教堂卓尔不同。 在欧洲旅行,教堂实在数不胜数,大部分时间作为匆匆过客只能留下短暂的眼缘。

Square of Petit Sablon

The urban design in the low countries is superb. Even in this limited space in the city center, there is one small garden with benches for people to rest. This small garden called Square of Petit Sablon was built in 1890. It is surrounded by a wrought-iron balustrade, decorated with 48 bronze statuettes which represent the ancient crafts once practiced in Brussels. There are ten statues decorating the rear of the park, illustrating the country’s celebrated scholars and humanists the 16th century. The statues of the Counts of Egmont and Hornes in the fountain symbolize the fight against Spanish tyranny in the 16th century. The pedestal is decorated with the coats of arms of their families. The travel in Brussel is interesting. I just walked slowly and stopped when I found the new attractive elements.

低地国家的城市设计绝对是首屈一指。 即使在市中心有限的空间里,也能创造出一个带长凳的小花园供人们休息。 这座名为小萨布隆广场的小花园建于 1890 年。它被锻铁栏杆环绕,栏杆上装饰着 48 个青铜小雕像,这些小雕像代表了曾经在布鲁塞尔奋斗过的古老工艺人。公园后侧装饰着十尊雕像,展示了比利时 16 世纪著名的学者和人文主义者。喷泉中央埃格蒙特伯爵和霍恩斯伯爵的雕像象征着 16 世纪比利时与西班牙暴政的斗争。基座则装饰着他们家族的徽章。布鲁塞尔的旅行新奇有趣。安步当车般走走停停,不时发现新的惊喜。

Palais de Justice

At the end of the Royal street, there is a huge building standing on the high land of 20 meters’ height. It was the Palace of Justice, built between 1866 and 1883. It was the largest building constructed in the world in the 19th century. It’s a court building including the Belgium’s supreme court of law. This magnificent building suffered heavy damage during World War II even today most part of it is under renovation. Its dome and façade is covered in scaffolding.

在皇家大街的尽头,20米高的高地上矗立着一座巨大的建筑。 它就是建于 1866 年至 1883 年之间的司法宫。它是 19 世纪世界上建造的最大的建筑。 如今也是一座法院大楼,包括比利时的最高法院。 这座宏伟的建筑在二战期间遭受了严重破坏,即使在今天,大部分建筑仍在翻新,它的圆顶和正立面被脚手架如包粽子般完全覆盖。

Even from far way, I could still distinguish this immense grey building with a large golden dome. Its style is a mixture of different styles. The interior of the building is decorated lavishly. It has a monumental marble staircase with Roman columns. The statues at the two flanks are Demosthenes, the famous orator of ancient Athens and Lycurgus, lawgiver of Sparta who established the military-oriented reformation of Spartan society.

即使在远方,我依然可以辨认出这座巨大的灰色建筑的轮廓以及金色的大圆顶。 它的风格是不同风格的混搭。建筑内部装饰华丽。它有一个装饰着罗马立柱的巨大大理石楼梯。 两侧的雕像分别是古雅典著名演说家德摩斯泰尼和确立以军事为主的斯巴达立法者莱库古斯。

The Botanical Garden

Brussel is a large city with so many travel attractions that I had to take two days to visit them. My first day trip focuses on historical buildings in the city center. My second day trip includes some parks, gardens and private houses in the suburb. It was a sunny morning. Firstly, I visited this botanical garden. It’s an Italian garden with an orangery of a French geometry and a rotunda of French baroque style with dome and columns. The middle terrace in an Italian style, has a star-shaped rose garden and an Iris garden. I like this kind of green landscape interspersed in the crowded city.

布鲁塞尔是一个有诸多旅游景点的大城市,不得不花足足两天时间一一便览。 我的第一天旅行着重于市中心的历史建筑。第二天行程包括郊区的一些公园、花园和私人住宅。 这是一个阳光明媚的早晨。首先探足的便是这个植物园。这是一个意大利花园包含一个法式几何形状的橘园和一个带有圆顶和柱子的法国巴洛克风格的圆形大厅。中庭为意式风格的星形玫瑰园和鸢尾花园。我十分欣赏在拥挤的城市里点缀着绿色景观的布局。

Marie Louise Square

In the east of city, there is a district of middle-class residential area. There are some gardens around this area. Marie Louise square is one of the elegant gardens with ducks swimming in the pretty tree-lined pond surrounded by greenery. A jet of fountain water comes out of a small island in the center of the pond. The garden is named by the French queen Marie-Louise, the wife of Napoleon.

城东有一片中产阶级住宅区。区域周围有诸多花园。玛丽路易丝广场就是其中一个风格优雅的花园,鸭子在绿树成荫的美丽池塘边嬉戏。一股泉水从池塘中央的一个小岛上喷涌而出。这座花园由拿破仑的妻子法国女王玛丽-路易丝命名。

There are numerous eclectic style mansions around the park. In front of the houses, there is a large surface of lawn decorated with bronze statues. I believe that the residents in these house must have a pleasant life every day when they open the window and face the greeneries and beautiful view outside.

公园四周环布风格各异的住宅。这些房屋前有一大片草坪,上面装饰着青铜雕像。脑补一下这里的住户每天打开窗户,面对外面的绿色植物宜人的风景,心情一定是舒畅无比的。

Then I passed by a series of common resident houses of Art Nouveau style. Nouveau means new in French so it means new art or modern art. It was often inspired by natural forms such as the sinuous curves of plants and flowers. This house only has three floors. Each block is separated by a rail fence. Although the court yard is very small, there is still a small area left for planting roses. Green moss leaves marks on the upper step and the rose vine looks like a green curtain in the yard. The small balconies are designed in different forms and their walls are painted in different colors. This kind of house is more interesting compared with the monotonous high-rise condominiums in Asian countries.

接下来我无意间路过了一列新艺术风格(Art Nouveau)的普通民居。Nouveau 在法语中的意思是新的,所以它代表着现代艺术。 它通常受到自然形式例如植物和花朵的蜿蜒曲线的启发。这列房子只有三层。每个街区都由围栏隔开。庭院虽小,却留有一小块地种植玫瑰,宛然一种苔痕上阶绿,草色入帘青的感觉。小阳台被设计成不同的样式,墙壁也被涂上了不同的颜色。这种房子比亚洲国家单调的高层住宅有趣多了。

Cinquantenaire Park

Continuing towards the east of the city, at noon I arrived at another landmark of Brussels, the Cinquantenaire Park which means the Fiftieth Anniversary. It is comprised of a set of gardens dotted with monuments and museums and dominated by a U-shaped triumphal arch with three arches. At this moment, I was standing at the large esplanade in front the arch, a very good place of taking pictures.

继续东行晌午时分我来到布鲁塞尔的另一个地标——五十周年纪念公园。 它由一组散布着纪念碑和博物馆的花园组成,并以一个带有三个拱门的U形凯旋门为主。此刻我站在拱门前的大广场上,这是一个非常适合拍照的地方。

The Cinquantenaire Arcade 

The most notable building in the park is of course this arcade. At its top, there’s a bronze quadriga entitled of Brabant Raising the National Flag and several sculptures representing the major cities and province of Belgium like Antwerp, Liege, Namur… This monument was built in 1880 for the 50th anniversary of the independence of Belgium. The pedestal in both directions bears the inscription: “This monument was erected in 1905 for the glorification of the independence of Belgium”. (One direction is in French and another direction is in Dutch.)

公园里最著名的建筑当属这个拱廊。 在它的顶部,有一个名为国旗飘扬的青铜四尊马车和几座代表比利时主要城市和省份的雕塑,如安特卫普、列日、那慕尔……这座纪念碑建于 1880 年,以纪念比利时独立 50 周年 。两个方向的基座上都刻有铭文:“这座纪念碑于 1905 年树立于此,以此纪念比利时独立的荣耀”。 (其中一个方向是法语,另一个方向是荷兰语。)

Stoclet Palace

In the suburb of Brussels, there are some Art Nouveau style private houses which are listed as World Heritage Site by UNESCO. They illustrate the outstanding local architecture arts to the utmost. The Stoclet Palace is a private mansion in the east of Cinquantenaire Park, very far away from the city enter. It was designed by the Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann for the Belgian financier Adolphe Stoclet between 1905 and 1911. It is built in the Vienna Secession style. I have never seen this kind of style before. The artistes of this style resigned from the Association of Austrian Artists in protest against its support for more traditional artistic styles. It is a kind of transition from Art Nouveau toward modernism. This house has a tower of stacked cubic forms with minimum ornament on the façade. Of course from my view I could not get its aesthetical value but it is listed as UNESCO heritage site in 2009 due to its influence on modernism in architecture. This house is still a private house owned by the Stoclet family and not open for visit.

在布鲁塞尔郊区,有一系列被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的新艺术风格的私人住宅。它们最好地展示了当地优秀的建筑艺术。这座斯托克莱宫是一座私人住宅,位于五十周年公园东边,离市区已经很远。它是由奥地利建筑师约瑟夫霍夫曼在 1905 年至 1911 年间为比利时金融家阿道夫斯托克莱设计的。它采用维也纳分离派风格建造。我以前从未见过这种风格。这种风格的艺术家曾经从奥地利艺术家协会辞职,以抗议其支持更传统的艺术风格。这种风格是一种从新艺术风格运动向现代主义的过渡。这所房子有一座堆叠的立方体塔,立面上的装饰朴实无华。当然,孤陋寡闻的我无法理解它的美学价值。但由于它对现代主义建筑的影响,它在 2009 年被列为联合国教科文组织遗产。这所住宅如今仍然是斯托克莱家族的私人住宅,不对外开放。

The Horta Museum 

Before I visited Belgium, the only private residence that I visited was the house designed by Gaudi. This time, I was standing in front if the house of Victor Horta’s former house and workshop. Horta was an excellent Belgian architect and designer, and one of the precursors of the Art Nouveau movement. Four of his designed houses in Brussels are listed in UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. Among the 4 houses, this museum is the most important with display of furniture, utensils and art objects designed by Horta. He has a great reputation of brilliant joining of the curved lines of decoration which can be expressed in his design of the balcony.

在游览比利时之前,我曾经参观的唯一私人住宅就是高迪设计的房子。这一次,我站在另一个大师维克多霍塔的故居前。霍塔是一位杰出的比利时建筑师和设计师,也是新艺术运动的先驱之一。 他在布鲁塞尔设计的四栋房屋于 2000 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。在这四栋房屋里,这座霍塔博物馆是最重要的,它展出霍塔设计的家具、器皿和艺术品。 他以出色的装饰曲线设计而享有盛誉,这可以在他设计的阳台中得到体现。

This is the living room of Horta’s house built in 1898. Horta is good at using steel frames , large windows, and skylights above stairways to bring light into the structures. His style is totally different with Gaudi. He prefers the single plain color theme in his design. The design like wooden floor, wooden door frame, and metallic doorknob is a bit closer to the modern interior decoration.

这是霍塔建于1898年的房子的客厅。霍塔擅长使用钢架、大窗户和楼梯上方的天窗为整个结构带来充足的光线。他的风格与高迪完全不同。他更喜欢在设计中使用单一的纯色主题。木地板、木门框、金属门把手等设计更接近现代室内装饰。

This is his bedroom. The wall and carpet is in dark blue which has a contrast with the yellow furniture. Horta is a great designer who designed large projects like Brussels central station. However all the furniture in his house like chairs and wardrobes are designed by him as well. Generally his room is arranged in relatively simple way. He like the big glass window that looks like a modern floor-to-ceiling window as well. Due to his great ideas of open floor plan, sunlight could come into the house easily and create a cozy environment.

这是他的卧室。墙壁和地毯是深蓝色的,与黄色的家具形成鲜明对比。霍塔是一位伟大的设计师,他还设计了布鲁塞尔中央车站等大型项目。同时他的所有家具,如椅子和衣柜,也是他自主设计而成。总体来说,他的房间布置得比较简单。他也喜欢很接近现代落地窗的大玻璃窗。由于对开放式设计的使用,阳光可以轻易进入房间创造出一个舒适的环境。

Brussels is large city and it has a perfect urban development plan with a good transportation system as well. For tourists it is easy to travel all the sites that I mention above in two days. Belgian city is not so famous compared with France and Italy. But there are different elements like parks, museums, palaces, squares and private houses for you to explore the history of Belgium. The trip could also widen your visions especially if you have not any ideas of the Art Nouveau. So don’t miss it as your next travel destination after the coronavirus ends.

最后补充一句布鲁塞尔是一座大城市,拥有完善的城市规划和良好的交通系统。 对于游客来说,两天内游览我上面提到的所有景点易如反掌。与法国和意大利相比,比利时城市并没有那么出名。但也包括如公园、博物馆、宫殿、广场和私人住宅等不同的风格元素供游客探索比利时的历史。旅行还可以拓宽视野,特别是如果你对新艺术运动一无所知的话 那么布鲁塞尔一定是你新冠病毒结束后的下一个旅行目的地。

In the morning light of Antwerp

朝行安特卫普

Yanni in the morning light

In the morning of September 10th, 2020, I was on my way back to France from Amsterdam. My planned trip was from Amsterdam to Antwerp, Ghent, Bruges, then Lille. In September, the weather in Low countries is usually rainy. I was really favored by the God that when I arrived at Antwerp, it was a sunny day with little breeze. I could bask in the warm morning sunlight freely when I just stepped out of the gate of station.

2020年9月10日早晨,我踏上从阿姆斯特丹返回法国的归途。 计划的旅行路线是从阿姆斯特丹到比利时的安特卫普、根特、布鲁日,最后是法国里尔。 九月初,低地国家的天气通常淫雨霏霏。可是我真的受上天眷顾,到达安特卫普之时,天气晴朗,风轻云淡。 刚迈出车站大门,就自在地沐浴在一抹温暖的晨光中。

Antwerpen Centraal station

Antwerp station was one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. I was stunned by its elegant designs when I got off the train. The architecture style of the station is eclecticism. It knits together the materials of the past (stone and marble) and the present(metal and glass). It was constructed in 1895. Its façade combines the neo-classical architectural elements characterized by the simple geometric forms and the Doric columns and the neo-renaissance architectural elements characterized by order and symmetry.

安特卫普车站被评为世界上最美丽的火车站之一。 刚下火车,它优雅的设计就令我感到震撼。 车站的建筑风格是折中风格。 它将代表过去的建筑材料(石头和大理石)和代表现代的建筑材料(金属和玻璃)结合在一起。 始建于1895年,它的立面结合了以简单几何形式和多立克柱为特征的新古典建筑元素和以秩序和对称为特征的新文艺复兴建筑元素。

The luxury design of the entrance hall of the station was really amazing. The staircase is decorated with marble balustrade like a Baroque palace. The big clock installed on the semi-circular glass panel is decorated with the gilded coat of arms of the city. There are many columns and arcades that makes me feel like that I was inside a renaissance building in Florence. The vast dome above the waiting room hall was designed by Louis Delacenserie and the vast (185 meters long and 44 meters high) iron and glass trainshed was designed by Clement van Bogaert. The principal designer Louis Delacenserie drew the inspiration from Lucerne Station in Switzerland. If I have a chance to visit Lucerne in the future, I will compare the difference and similarity of both stations firstly.

车站的入口大厅的豪华设计令人闻之瞠目。楼梯上装饰着大理石栏杆,宛如一座巴洛克式的宫殿。安装在半圆形玻璃面板上的大钟装饰着镀金的安特卫普城市徽章。众多柱子和拱廊仿佛将我置身于佛罗伦萨的一座文艺复兴时期的建筑中。 候车室大厅上方的巨大圆顶由 比利时建筑师Louis Delacenserie 设计,巨大的(185 米长和 44 米高)钢铁玻璃候车棚由 Clement van Bogaert 设计。 车站首席设计师 Louis Delacenserie 从瑞士的卢塞恩车站汲取灵感设计了本站。 愚以为若以后有机会去卢塞恩旅游,首先就会比较两个站的不同和相似处。

The most spectacular architecture of the hall is the 75-metre-high dome decorated with different types of marbles. The huge dome of the hall remind me of the Pantheon in Rome. At this moment, I felt like I was standing under the cupola of a cathedral.

大厅里最壮观的建筑就是75米高的圆顶,上面装饰着不同类型的大理石。 大厅的巨大圆顶不由得让人想起罗马的万神殿。 此刻我恍惚有种站在某个大教堂的圆顶下的错觉。

Antwerp Chinatown

Outside the train station, there is a district of China town. As a Chinese, I was excited to see this Chinese style golden Pagodepoort (which means pagoda gate or paifang) in the land out of China. The Chinese character on the gate means the Chinese market in Antwerp. Another traditional Chinese element is the pairs of stone lions at the gateway. Antwerp Chinatown’s archway was the second Chinatown archway in Europe.

车站外有一片唐人街区。 作为一个中国人,在海外看到这类中国风格的金色牌坊还是略感激动。 大门上的汉字安市华埠也许通安特卫普中国市场之意。 另一个中国传统元素就是门口的一对石狮子。安特卫普的拱门是欧洲的第二座唐人街拱门。

Statue of David Teniers

Antwerp is famous of Flemish arts. The most well-known local painters are David Teniers and Peter Paul Rubens. Their statues in the city square of Antwerp are worshipped by visitors all around the world. Near the train station, the first statue that was seen immediately was the statue of David Teniers. He was a Flemish Baroque painter, born in Antwerp in 1610. He is an innovators of painting and remembered as the leading Flemish genre painter of his day. From this statue, I was walking towards a notable pedestrian street called Meir with many shops and historical sites and started my trip in Antwerp.

安特卫普以佛拉芒艺术而闻名世界。 当地最著名的画家是大卫·特尼尔斯和彼得·保罗·鲁本斯。 他们的雕像自然在安特卫普的城市广场上接收各地游客的膜拜。 火车站附近,第一眼映入眼帘就是大卫·特尼尔斯的雕像。 他是一位佛拉芒巴洛克风格画家,1610 年出生于安特卫普。他是巴洛克绘画的创新者,被世人铭记为引领潮派的佛拉芒流派画家。 从这座雕像出发,我走向一条名为 Meir 的有众多商店和历史遗迹的著名步行街,开启了我的安市之旅。

Paleis op de Meir

The historical city center is just in the west of the train station so it was convenient to visit all the monuments within few hours. The first famous building on this street is called palace in Meir. It is a beautiful rococo palace with three wings around a small courtyard. This building traced back to 18th century is used for reception of important rulers such as Napoleon Bonaparte, Willem I of the Netherlands and it is also used as the Belgian Royal House. Nowadays after so many years, it becomes a museum but when I arrived the museum was closed temporarily.

历史悠久的老城区就坐落于火车站的西边,几个小时以内就可方便地参观所有的古迹。 这条街上第一座著名的建筑叫做梅厄宫(Paleis op de Meir)。 这是一座美丽的洛可可式宫殿,三翼环绕着一个小庭院。 这座建于 18 世纪的建筑曾用于接待拿破仑·波拿巴、荷兰威廉一世等重要统治者,它也被用作比利时王室驻地。 如今时过境迁,它已经摇身一变成为了博物馆,遗憾的是,在我造访之日博物馆暂时关闭了。

Rubenshuis

Another well-known building in the Meir street is this ordinary-looking residential house. When we talked about the painting of Belgium, the painters that we can first remember must be Rubens and Van Dyck. Peter Paul Rubens is definitely the forever pride of this city. His house Rubenshuis not fat away from the royal palace is well preserved. Rubens purchased the house in 1610 and renovated it on the basis of designs by himself. After the renovations, the house had the outlook of an Italian palace, which reflected the unique artistic ideals of Rubens.

Meir街上另一座著名的建筑就是这座平凡无奇的民居。 当我们谈到比利时的绘画,耳熟能详的画家一定是鲁本斯和范戴克。 彼得保罗鲁本斯绝对是这座城市永远的骄傲。 他曾经的居所,离王宫不远保存完好如初。 鲁本斯于 1610 年购买了这座宅院,并在自己设计的基础上对其进行了翻新。 整修后的房子呈现出意大利宫殿般的外观,体现了鲁本斯独特的艺术思路。

Rubens is regarded as the most influential artist of the Flemish Baroque tradition. His Baroque style painting emphasized on movement, color, and sensuality. He ran a big art workshop in Antwerp so he had very close relationship with this city. Most of his works are history painting which are conserved in the reception room of his house. This photo shows his self portrait. From these artworks, you could get the insights into his talent heart even after 400 years.

鲁本斯被认为是佛拉芒巴洛克艺术传统中最具影响力的艺术家。他的巴洛克风格绘画强调运动、色彩和感性。 这位德国画家曾在安特卫普开设了一家大型艺术工作室便和这座城市结下不解之缘。 其大部分作品都是历史画,保存在鲁本斯故居的客厅。 这张照片里展示的是他的自画像。即使400年后你也可以通过他的艺术作品洞察他天才的内心。

Through the entrance of the house, there is a Roman arch of triumph leading to a garden. This is the place where the artist, who acted as the official diplomatic role at the court of the Spanish Netherlands, grew his plants. Rubens designed everything of the house by himself based on Italian Renaissance palace architecture so we can find many elements of renaissance here. As an admirer of Renaissance building, I appreciated his design of Italian style which gave me a similar resonance.

穿过住所入口,一个通向花园的罗马凯旋门赫然出现。 这是这位在西班牙荷兰宫廷担任外交官时期种植花卉的地方。鲁本斯根据意大利文艺复兴时期的宫殿建筑自主设计了这座房子的一切,所以众多文艺复兴元素遍地可寻。 作为文艺复兴建筑的崇拜者,我由衷欣赏他的设计,这种意大利风也会引起我的共鸣。

Rubens created most of his works in this studio in the picture. There are many bas-reliefs and pillars on the façade of the studio. It looks like the palace in the street of Garibaldi in Genova. Outside the studio, it is the garden designed by Rubens based on his painting “Strolling in the Garden” . It’s an oasis of quiet in the bustling city. Rubens planted sunflowers, orange and fig trees in his garden. He could sit down at the window side and watch the shadows of garden in his spare time. After visiting this place, I think Rubens really had an admirable life. He could live in his own world leisurely and enjoyed the life in his own way. If you are interested in Flemish art or his life, Rubens house will definitely be a wonderful place to visit.

鲁本斯在照片中的这个工作室创作了他的大多数作品。 工作室的正立面装饰有许多浅浮雕和廊柱。它看起来就像热那亚加里波第大街上的一座宫殿。画室外,是鲁本斯根据他的画作《漫步花园》设计的小花园。 这里是繁华都市中的一片宁静绿洲。 鲁本斯在他的花园里种植了向日葵、橙树和无花果树,在闲暇之余坐对当窗木,看移三面阴。 参观完他的住所不由得一声感叹,鲁本斯的生活真的很令人羡慕。 他可以自在地活在自己的世界里,以自己的方式享受生活。 如果你对佛拉芒艺术或者这种生活感兴趣,鲁本斯故居绝对是一个值得游览的好地方。

Groenplaats

Rubens is so famous that his bronze statue is placed on the Groenplaats place since 1843. There are numerous bars, cafes and fast food restaurants around this historical square. It is recommended to have a cup of coffee here and stare at the high rising cathedral in the back of the square.

鲁本斯大名享誉世界,他的铜像自 1843 年起就被放置在格罗恩普拉茨广场上。这个历史悠久的广场周围有许多酒吧、咖啡馆和快餐店。推荐在这里喝杯咖啡,遥望广场后面高高耸立的大教堂。

It is weird that Rubens’ figure is depicted as one Roman cavalry instead of a painter. He hold a sword around his waist and wore his iconic wide-brimmed hat and kept a gesture of fighting. There are several Latin words CIVI OLIM SUO – S.P. Q.A. – SUMPTIB. PUBL. ET PRIV. – P. – MDCCCXXXX on the base of the statue. It reminds me of the statues of Roman Emperors.

尤为奇怪的是,鲁本斯的形象被描绘成一位罗马骑士而不是画家。 他戴着标志性的宽檐帽,腰间手握一把剑,保持着战斗姿势。几个拉丁字母 CIVI OLIM SUO – S.P. Q.A. MDCCCXXXX 刻在雕像的底座上,不由得让我想起了罗马皇帝的塑像。

The Cathedral of Our Lady 

In the photo above, it is the most famous church in Antwerp called The Cathedral of Our Lady. The church has a very tall bell tower, up to 123 meters. In Belgium, one of the special view points to be noticed by the travelers is the bell tower (belfry) in the city center. The belfry of this cathedral is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites however when I arrived, it was under restoration and forbidden to visitors.

在上面的照片中,它是安特卫普最著名的教堂,叫做圣母大教堂。 教堂有一座非常高的钟楼,高达123米。 在比利时,游客着重参观的景点就是老城区的钟楼(也叫做belfry)。 这座大教堂的钟楼同时也被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录,但是我再一次乘兴而来,败兴而去,它这天正在修缮中,禁止游客参观。

It took totally 169 years to complete this church, from 1352 to 1521. It is really a miracle to build the highest building in the low countries at that time. It shows the ultimate gothic architecture art in the mean time. Also this church contains the superb Baroque art. Visitors could wander in this artistic mecca and focus on the magnificent large altar paintings by Rubens. On this photo, the painting in the choir above the main altar is called ‘The Assumption of the Virgin’. Rubens has a wonderful master of the colors in this painting.

这座教堂从1352年伊始到1521年,足足用了169年才建成完工。在中世纪就建造出了低地国家最高的建筑绝对是一个奇迹。它同时也展示了高超的哥特式建筑艺术并且包含了精湛的巴洛克绘画艺术。游客徜徉于这片艺术圣地专注欣赏鲁本斯宏伟的大型祭坛画。 这张照片上,主祭坛上方的合唱团中的这幅画被称为“圣母升天”。世人皆惊叹鲁本斯的妙手丹青尤其是其对色彩的把握更是如火纯青。

Don’t forget that this church has an awesome dome. In the palace or church in Europe, the paintings on their ceilings always impress me. In the tower of this church, there is a huge circular painting on the ceiling as well. This beautiful painting’s diameter of 5.8 meters is created by Cornelis Schut. Its name is also ‘The Assumption of the Virgin’. Antwerp Cathedral is dedicated to the mother of Christ – the Virgin Mary so many artworks in the church is related with her. This painting depicts the story of Mary ascending into heaven.

另外这座教堂还有一个令人赞叹的圆顶。在欧洲的宫殿或教堂里,他们天顶上的壁画总会留下深刻的印象。 在这座教堂的塔楼内,天顶上也绘制了一幅巨大的圆形画。 这幅美轮美奂的画作直径 5.8 米,由 Cornelis Schut 创作。 它的名字也是“圣母升天”。 安特卫普大教堂是用于祭拜基督之母——圣母玛利亚,教堂里的许多艺术品自然都与她息息相关。 这幅画描绘了圣母升天的宗教故事。

St. Charles Borromeo Church

Another stylish church in Antwerp is the St. Charles Borromeo Church. This church has a very beautiful façade of Baroque style. Rubens contributed a lot to the decoration and design of the church. It was built between 1615 and 1621 by the Jesuits. There are many small sculpture of Jesus and the saints in the niches on the façade. The emblem of the Jesuits ‘IHS’ etched on a crucifix was at a conspicuous position above the entrance. ‘IHS’ is called a ‘Christogram’ and is an ancient way of writing the word ‘Jesus Christ’. This emblem hold by angels was designed Rubens.

安特卫普另一座别具风格的教堂是圣查尔斯博罗梅奥教堂。 这座教堂拥有非常漂亮的巴洛克风格外观。 鲁本斯对教堂的装饰和设计贡献良多。 它由耶稣会士于 1615 年至 1621 年间建造。 正面的壁龛中有许多耶稣和圣徒的小雕塑。 耶稣受难像上雕刻的耶稣会会徽“IHS”位于入口上方的显眼位置。 “IHS”被称为“基督象征”,是一种古老的书写“耶稣基督”这个词的方式。 这个天使环抱的标志是由鲁本斯设计。

Rubens has designed the altar surrounded by black marble as well. There is a pulley system to hang religious paintings on the altar. The Antwerp Jesuits used this system to change paintings periodically. Nowadays the paintings will be changed on important days like Easter Monday and the Feast of the Assumption.

鲁本斯同时还设计了黑色大理石环绕的祭坛。有一个滑轮系统可以将宗教画挂在祭坛上。 安特卫普耶稣会士使用这个系统定期更换画作。 如今,这些画将在复活节星期一和圣母升天节等重要节日进行更换。

The Hendrik Conscience Heritage Library 

Behind the St. Charles Borromeo Church, there is a building with Dutch letters ‘stadsbibliotheek’. Many European languages are similar so I could roughly guess out the function of this building is city library. It is named after the Flemish writer Hendrik Conscience and the statue in this photo is him. Visitors could walk in freely and find out Antwerp’s history. Here there are more than 1 million collections of books about Dutch literature and the cultural history of Flanders.

在圣查尔斯博罗梅奥教堂后面,有一栋带有荷兰字母“stadsbibliotheek”的建筑。 众多欧洲语言都是如此相似,所以我可以大致猜出这座建筑的功能是城市图书馆。 它以佛兰德作家亨德里克命名,这张照片中的雕像就是此公。 游客可以自由进出了解安特卫普的历史。 这里有超过100万册关于荷兰文学和法兰德地区文化史的书籍。

The city center of Antwerp is steeped in history. In Belgium, another special viewpoint to be noticed by visitors is the triangle roof house in the grand squares. These old houses are the guild houses in medieval times. They are used by guilds for meetings historically. The Low Countries used to have guildhalls in every city, like Brussel, Antwerp, and Ghent.

安特卫普老城区历史悠久。 在比利时,另一个值得游客驻足回首的便是是大广场上的三角形顶房屋。 这些老房子属于中世纪的商贸公会。 历史上它们被公会用于会议。低地国家曾经在每个城市都设有公会大厅,比如布鲁塞尔、安特卫普和根特。

Grote Markt

If you want to look for the remnant of the sealed history, please move to the guild houses of Sint-Joris and de Valk that can be found in the Grote Market. It is a big square situated in the heart of the city quarter near the Scheldt river. It means Great Market Square. Historically many English merchants would come here and do business with merchants from the Hanseatic cities in north Germany. From the end of the fifteenth century, Antwerp overtook Bruges as the most prominent city of the Low Countries. This square is the most representative place of Antwerp. The city hall of Antwerp is located in this square.

若要追寻那段尘封的往事,请移步Grote Market广场上的Sint-Joris 和 de Valk 的公会之家。 这里是一个宽阔的大广场,位于斯海尔德河附近的老城区。Grote Market意思是大市场。 历史上,许多英国商人来这里与德国北部汉萨同盟城市的商人做生意。 从十五世纪末开始,安特卫普取代布鲁日成为低地国家最出名的城市。 这个广场也是安特卫普最具代表性的地方。 安特卫普市政厅就坐落在这个广场上。

Brabo Fountain

In the center of square, there is a bronze statue of a man throwing a huge severed hand. The statue was designed by the Belgian sculptor Jef Lambeaux and inaugurated in 1887. This statue is tribute to the great soldier Silvius Brabo. According to legend, there was a giant who built a fortress along the Scheldt River. The giant forced passing boats to pay a toll, If the travelers refused, the giant would cut off one of their hands and tossed it into the river. When Brabo arrived, he dueled with the giant bravely and chopped off the giant’s hand, which he threw into the river just like the giant once did. The name of the city ‘Antwerpen’ in Flemish also means ‘hand throwing’.

广场中央,有一尊男子投掷巨大断手的铜像。 该雕像由比利时雕塑家 Jef Lambeaux 设计,于 1887 年落成。这座雕像纪念伟大的士兵布拉博 。相传,有一位巨人在斯海尔德河沿岸建造了一座堡垒。 巨人强迫过往的船只支付过路费,如果旅行者拒绝,巨人就会砍掉他们的一只手,然后把它扔进河里。 当布拉博路过时,他勇敢地与巨人决斗并斩断了巨人的手,就像它一样,将手扔进了河里。“安特卫普”这个名称在佛拉芒语中也有“投掷手臂”的意思。

Het Steen

When tourists continue walking towards west, there is a castle standing at the riverside of Scheldt. It was built between 1200 and 1225, which was Antwerp’s oldest building. At that period, Antwerp belongs to county of Flanders, which was subordinate to the king of France. The name Het Steen in Dutch stands for ‘The Rock’. In history, Het Steen became the museum of archeology and maritime history as well. At the entrance, there is a bas-relief of Semini, above the archway. Semini is the Scandinavian God of youth and fertility. In medieval time, people have realized the importance of fertility. More population means stronger strength for one country.

当游客继续一路向西,有一座城堡矗立在斯海尔德河畔。 它建于 1200 年至 1225 年之间,是安特卫普最古老的建筑。 曾几何时,安特卫普属于法兰德斯郡,隶属于法兰西国王。 它的名字Het Steen 在荷兰语中代表“岩石”。 在历史上,Het Steen 城堡也成为了考古和海洋历史博物馆。 在入口处,拱门上方是塞米尼的浅浮雕。 塞米尼是斯堪的纳维亚神话里的青春和生育之神。在中世纪,人们已经意识到生育的重要性。人口越多,国家实力越强。

Museum aan de Stroom

The museum of archeology and maritime history was moved to this building in the recent years. The Museum aan de Stroom was open in 2011. It was obvious a modern building which looked totally different compared to the old buildings in the city center. This postmodern Art Deco building was made of Indian red sandstone and curved glass panel. It collects mostly the maritime documents of international trade and shipping, art and culture work of the port of Antwerp.

近年来,考古和海洋历史博物馆搬到了途中这座建筑。 Museum aan de Stroom 博物馆于 2011 年开放。很明显,与市中心的古老建筑相比,这是一座完全迥异的现代风格的建筑。 这座后现代装饰艺术风格的建筑由印度红砂岩和弧形玻璃面板制成。 它主要收集了安特卫普港的国际贸易和航运、艺术和文化的海事文件。

When I arrived at the port of Antwerp, I was far away from the historical city center and there is nothing more special to mention. Antwerp is linked to the North Sea through the River Scheldt so it is one of the most important port in the world, second largest port in Europe. It is a quite influential city and is famous of diamond industry as well. For tourists who are interested in diamond, they can visit the diamond district in Antwerp.

到达安特卫普港时,距离历史悠久的老城区已经相距甚远,没有什么特别的景点值得一提的。 安特卫普通过斯海尔德河与北海相连,因此它是世界上最重要的港口之一,也是欧洲第二大港口。 它是一个颇具影响力的城市,钻石业独步天下。 如果对钻石感兴趣的游客可以去安特卫普的钻石区游览片刻。

However for me I just enjoyed a pleasant half day in the city area which was good enough. If people asked me about this city, I would tell them excitedly that in one summer morning, I have visited the house where Rubens had lived and walked through the alleys with many towers and the medieval court yards. Of course, no matter what happens, travel in a good mood is always the most important because the golden year does not come again and it is difficult to return to the morning of yesterday.

然而对我而言,我只是在老城区度过了悠然自得的半天,这已经足够了。 如果有人向我提及这座城市,我会兴奋地讲述,在一个美好的夏日清晨,我徘徊于鲁本斯的住处,穿行于塔楼遍布的深院小巷。 当然,无论发生什么,带着好心情去旅行永远是最重要的。毕竟盛年不重来,一日难再晨。

[ The end ]

【完】

The brilliant summer of Ghent

根特的璀璨夏日

Colors of the wind

Time has passed fast. This is my first blog in the new year of 2022.Now due to the spreading of covid-19, I have to stay in Singapore but I always miss my trips in the last two years. During my graduation trip in 2020, I have visited many fairy-tale cities in Europe. Ghent is one attractive, ancient and splendid city in north Belgium which is a tale of the Flemish Region. It owns numerous medieval buildings that are now still well preserved and restored. The belfry and town hall, were listed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites in 1999. Its name derives from Ganda, the Celtic word which means ‘confluence’.

时光荏苒,岁月如梭。转眼到了2022年,这是我在新年的第一篇博客。目前由于 covid-19新冠的肆虐,我不得不苟且在新加坡,但我总是心念过去两年的旅行。 尤其是2020年的毕业旅行,我曾踏足欧洲众多童话般的城市。 根特就是比利时北部一座迷人、古老而充满活力的城市。ta记录了佛兰德地区的历史并拥有许多中世纪建筑,时至今日仍然保存完好。 古城的钟楼和市政厅于 1999 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。根特的名字来源于凯尔特语甘达,意思是“汇合”。

River  Leie

I took the train from Antwerp and got off at the station Gent-Dampoort which was the nearest station to the city area. Illuminated by the warm sunlight of September, the River Leie reflected the silhouette of the colorful houses arranged orderly along the river side. This is my first glimpse of this ancient city. I will say I would love it at the first sight. In the first half of the 20th century, this section of riverside was known as a favorite place for numerous painters.

我从安特卫普乘火车,在距离市区最近的车站 Gent-Dampoort 下车。 在九月暖阳的照耀下,Leie河倒映着沿岸排列整齐的五颜六色房屋的轮廓。 这是我与这座古城的首次邂逅,确实令我一见倾心。在20世纪上半叶,这一段河边盛景也是无数画家的最爱取景之地。

Geeraard de Duivelsteen

It is a pleasure to walk along the Scheldt and Leie Canals that surround the city center. The handrails on the river bank are decorated with beautiful flowers. The high rising ancient steeple-roofed castles just stand in the other side of water silently. This castle named Geeraard de Duivelsteen was built in the 13th century and was named after the knight Geeraard Vilain. It served as defense of the city’s port for hundreds years.

沿着环绕老城区的Scheldt和Leie运河漫步是一种享受。河岸上的栏杆上装饰着灿烂的花朵。 高高耸立的古老尖顶城堡静静地矗立在河的彼岸。 这座名为 Geeraard de Duivelsteen 的城堡建于 13 世纪,以骑士 Geeraard Vilain 的名字命名。 它曾作为城市港口的防御工事而存在几百年。

This castle has a grim and intimidating appearance. Through the centuries in the medieval time, it has been used as an arsenal, a monastery, and a bishop’s seminary. In 1623, it became a madhouse for the mentally ill people. This anecdote creates a quaint and eccentric atmosphere to this building with name of devil (Duivelsteen in Dutch means devil).

这座城堡有着冷峻而令人生畏的外观。 在中世纪过去的几个百年,它一直被用作武器库、修道院和主教的神学院。 1623年后,这里成为精神病患者的疗养院。 这些成年轶事也为这座名为恶魔的建筑营造了一种光怪陆离的氛围。

Statue of Lieven Bauwens

During my trip in Europe, I was always interested in the statues of celebrity because they usually represent one brilliant piece of story of the city. At the end of the canal, there was a bronze statue of Lieven Bauwens. He was a Belgian entrepreneur and industrial spy who brought a spinning mule and skilled workers to Belgium during the booming industrial revolution. He was largely respected by the Flanders because he started textile plants in Ghent in 1800 and promoted the textile industry in the area.

在欧洲旅行期间,我一直对名人雕像特别留意,因为它们通常代表了这座城市的时代剪影。 在运河的尽头,有一尊列文·鲍文斯的铜像。 他是一位比利时企业家和商业间谍,在风起云涌的工业革命时代他曾将纺纱骡子技术和纺织技术工人带到比利时。 由于 1800 年他在根特开设了纺织厂,并促进了该地区的纺织工业,他也特别受到佛兰德斯人的拥戴。

The Saint Bavo Cathedral 

Most medieval buildings concentrate in the city center. Among them, the tallest is this Saint Bavo Cathedral. The construction of the Gothic church began around 1274. It has two high spires with height up to 89 meters. We can find the two interesting posters on the wall of entrance, stating: Lam gods is here. Van Eyck is here. The cathedral is noted for the famous religious art piece Ghent Altarpiece created by Hubert and Jan van Eyck. It is also called The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb.

大多数中世纪建筑集中在市中心的老城区。 其中,最高的就是圣巴沃大教堂。 这座哥特式教堂的建造始于 1274 年左右。它有两个直达云霄尖顶,最高可达 89 米。 在教堂入口的墙上我发现了两张有趣的海报,上面写着:神的羔羊在此。 范艾克在此。 这座大教堂以休伯特和扬·范·艾克创作的著名宗教艺术作品《根特祭坛画》而闻名。 它也被称为神秘羔羊的崇拜。

The Ghent Altarpiece 

In Flanders area, Dutch is the most language used. The Ghent Altarpiece is called Het Lam Gods in Dutch. The famous Flemish painters and brothers Hubert and Jan van Eyck completed this masterpiece in 1432. It consists of twelve interior panels which measures 5.2m x 3.75 m. It depicts the scenes of the God flanked by the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. The central panel of the lower shows a religious ceremony of an adoration of the Lamb. Lamb of god is a title for Jesus that appears in the Gospel of John. In that part, John the Baptist sees Jesus and exclaims, “Behold the Lamb of God who takes away the sin of the world. So it is why the art piece is called Lamb Gods.

在佛兰德地区,荷兰语是使用最多的语言。 根特祭坛画在荷兰语中被称为 Het Lam Gods(就是海报里的Lam Gods)。 著名的佛兰德画家休伯特和扬·范·艾克兄弟于1432 年完成了这幅杰作。它由 12 个内部面板组成,尺寸为 5.2 米 x 3.75 米。 它描绘了上帝,和两侧的圣母玛利亚和施洗约翰。 下部的中央面板显示了崇拜羔羊的宗教仪式。 神的羔羊是约翰福音书中的对耶稣的称呼。 在那个章节,施洗约翰看到耶稣并感叹道:“看,神的羔羊,除去了世人的罪孽。这就是为什么这件艺术品被称为神的羔羊。

The Belfry

There are three medieval towers overlooking the old city center. Another extremely tall building is the belfry of Ghent. It is the symbol of the city, memorizing the city’s independence. In north France and Belgium, there are numerous bell towers with the similar style. They represent the architecture arts of Flanders and Wallonia under the influence of the former County of Flanders. The construction of the tower began in 1313. There is a gilded dragon installed at the top of the building in 1377. At medieval time, the ringing bell was to remind the citizens of Ghent of enemy or a battle won.

根特有三座中世纪塔楼可以俯瞰老城区。 另一座高耸入云的建筑就是根特钟楼。它是根特标志性建筑,以纪念城市的独立。 在法国北部和比利时,有许多类似风格的钟楼。 它们代表了受前佛兰德公国影响的佛兰德和瓦隆的建筑艺术。钟塔的建造始于 1313 年, 并于1377 年在建筑物的顶部安装了一条镀金的龙。在中世纪,钟声长鸣是为了提醒根特的公民有敌人入侵或战斗胜利。

Sint-Baafsplein

Now I was standing in the square of Sint-Baafsplein which was the heart of the city. In Europe, square is always the cultural and historical place for leisure and assembly. From this square, visitors could sit at the terrace of cafeteria and look up at the top of the bell tower. This is very popular place for tourists. There are some small shops selling postcard around the square. The gothic building adjoining the belfry is the Cloth Hall. It used to be the meeting place of the wool and cloth traders. It is really an amazing experience to sit in the square under the warm sun light peacefully and keep my eyes on the flowing fountain and the roaring trams passing by.

此刻我站在市中心的圣巴夫广场上。 在欧洲,广场一直是休闲和集会的文化和历史场所。 从这个广场上,游客可以坐在餐厅的露台上,仰望钟楼的顶部。 它是非常受游客欢迎的地方。 广场周围有一些卖明信片的小店。 毗邻钟楼的哥特式建筑是织物馆。这里曾经是棉毛商人的交易地。 在温暖的阳光下安然坐在广场上,注视着面前流淌的喷泉和轰鸣经过的有轨电车,真是一种奇妙的体验。

NTGent and Miryzaal

Under the belfry’s shade, the tourists could have a drink in front of the Gent theatre. Its façade contains some beautiful sculptures in the niche and some colorful frescos. The theatre NTGent is the home of the Royal Dutch Theatre. It is the ideal place for the classic music lover. In the center of the square, the fountain with the statue of Jan-Frans Willems is just in front of the theatre. As a cofounder of the Flemish Movement, Jan-Frans Willems opposed the government’s language policy in favor of the French-speaking people.

在钟楼的阴影下,游客们可以在根特剧院前小酌一杯。 它的正立面含有一些壁龛中美丽的雕塑和色彩缤纷的壁画。根特剧院是荷兰皇家剧院的所在地。 是古典音乐爱好者的理想去处。 在广场的中心,装饰着扬-弗兰斯·威廉斯雕像的喷泉伫立在剧院的前面。 作为佛兰芒语运动的联合创始人,扬-弗兰斯·威廉斯一直反对政府的有利于法语群体的语言政策。

Town Hall (Stadhuis)

I enjoyed relaxingly walking around the city center with so many old buildings in this cozy afternoon. Without notice, I passed by their city hall where parked many bicycles. It is one historical monument of the city and reflects the brilliant history and evolution of the city starting from the late 15th century until present. It combines many architectural styles like Gothic ornaments and Renaissance design elements. It has a unique rooftop with many triangle windows. The city hall is indeed an impressive building but my attention was drawn by the man blowing bubbles. In the small cities in Europe, I could always see some people playing instruments leisurely or having fun in the street. The rhythm of carefree life style in these cities is totally different compared with the metropolis that I have lived.

在这个舒适的下午,在如此多古老建筑环绕的市中心漫步真是令人愉悦的放松。 不经意之间经过了根特的市政厅,那里停着许多自行车。 市政厅是这座城市的历史古迹之一,反映了这座城市从 15 世纪末到现在的辉煌历史和演变。 它结合了各异的建筑风格,如哥特式装饰和文艺复兴时期的设计元素。 市政厅有一个独特的屋顶以及许多三角形窗户确实令人印象深刻,但我的注意力却被被那个吹泡泡的艺人所吸引。 在欧洲的小城市里,我总能看到一些人悠闲地弹奏乐器,或者在街上玩耍。这种悠闲的生活节奏和我一直住过的大都市截然不同。

Sint-Michielsbrug

Next I followed the track of tram and stepped on this arch stone bridge. I had to say that this city always gave me infinite surprise. Along the river bank, there was an amazing view close to the fairy-tale world that I always imagined in my mind. From the Saint Michael’s Bridge, I could see many stylish houses, the Ghent’s iconic bell tower and the massive Gothic church.

接着我沿着电车的轨道,踏上了这座拱形石桥。 不得不说,这座城市总是给我无限惊喜。 河岸两边,一直在我脑海中浮想联翩的童话世界在我眼前栩栩展开。 从圣迈克尔桥上,众多极具特色的小房子,根特标志性的钟楼和巨大的哥特式教堂映入我的眼帘。

 Saint Michael’s Church

The history of this magnificent church called Saint Michael could be traced to 11st century. The construction of the current Gothic church started from 1440. Due to a series of delays and fund deficiency, the tower could not be finished. Until 1828, a flat roof was built over the unfinished tower. The church includes many paintings by Baroque artists like van Dyck. It was located at the west of the Saint Michael’s Bridge. Many boats passed through the bridge and arrived at the famous Graslei.

这座宏伟的圣迈克尔教堂的历史可以追溯到 11 世纪。 如今的哥特式教堂的始建于1440年。由于一系列的延误和经费不足,最终塔楼始终无法完工。 到 1828 年,最后在未完工的塔楼上建造了一个平顶。 这间教堂里有许多巴洛克艺术家如著名的范戴克的画作。 它位于圣迈克尔桥的西边。 许多小船经过此桥,抵达了著名的格拉斯莱码头。

Graslei

The most iconic view of Ghent must be the Graslei which is always displayed on postcard. Graslei is a vibrant quay in the right bank of river Leie. It’s a medieval port which history dated back to fifth century when Ghent was the center of the wheat trade in the County of Flanders. It is a well known landscape of the well preserved medieval houses with stepped gable and cafeteria. Most local people prefer to relax at the riverbank, dangling their legs over the quay comfortably and bask themselves in the pleasant sunlight. It is definitely a romantic experience to sit down here with the lover appreciating every detail of the city, isn’t it?

根特最具标志性的景观一定是在明信片上反复出现的格拉斯莱。 格拉斯莱(Graslei)是一个充满活力的码头,位于 Leie 河的右岸。 这是一个古老的港口,它的历史可以追溯到五世纪,当时根特是佛兰德郡小麦贸易的中心。 这一片区域是中世纪保存完好的阶梯式山墙房屋的著名景点。众多当地百姓也喜欢在两岸放松身心,双腿舒适地悬搭在码头岸上,沐浴在宜人的阳光下。坐在这里和挚爱欣赏城市的每一个细节绝对是一种浪漫的体验。

It is recommended to take a boat trip from the Graslei. Along the Leie River, you must admire the Flemish Renaissance buildings at the banks. Most of them are the guild houses in the medieval times. The canal in Ghent is not so long compared to the Grand canal in Venice so the boat trip usually takes just 40 minutes.

非常推荐从格拉斯莱乘船游览根特。 沿着Leie河便可欣赏河岸边的佛兰芒文艺复兴时期的建筑。 其中大部分是中世纪的商会房屋。 与威尼斯的大运河相比,根特的运河并不长,因此乘船游览通常只需 40 分钟。

Grasbrug

In the north of Graslei, there is a little bridge called Grasbrug. It’s an intersection of waterway here. Visitor could stand on the bridge at dusk and take the pictures of the appealing façade of the buildings along the Graslei. You could totally immerse yourself in this poetic ambiance of the misty scene.

在格拉斯莱以北,有一座小桥叫格拉斯布鲁格。 这里是水路的交汇处。 黄昏时分,游客站立桥头,纷纷拍下格拉斯莱沿岸迷人景色。 水光潋滟,景色空濛,人们完全沉浸在根特的诗情画意中。

Gravensteen

Following the babbling river, next I stopped in front of one castle built at the river side. At its top I could find the yellow dragon flag of the Flanders county. The Gravensteen which means Castle of the Counts was a medieval castle dating from 1180. It was a unique castle with the style of Syrian crusader. It was the residence of the Counts of Flanders until 1353 and subsequently converted to prison and cotton factory. It is now a museum. The castle is fortified by an oval-shaped enceinte with 24 small round watch towers.

顺着潺潺的河流,接下来我驻足在河边的一座城堡前。 它的顶部,佛兰德公国的黄龙旗清晰可见。 Gravensteen 意为伯爵城堡,是一座建于 1180 年的中世纪城堡。这是一座独特的叙利亚十字军风格的城堡。 1353 年之前它一直是佛兰德伯爵的住所,随后被改建为监狱和棉花工厂。 它如今是一个博物馆。 城堡由一个带有 24 个小圆形瞭望塔的椭圆形 城廓加固而成。

Sint-Veerleplein square

The castle overlooks this small square called Sint-Veerleplein. This square was a marketplace but also the site of executions and burnings of the victims of the Inquisition in the medieval time. Now visitors could have a rest in the cafés and taste the pancakes here. The architecture of the surrounding is quite exceptional.

城堡俯瞰着这个名为 Sint-Veerleplein 的小广场。 这个广场曾经是一个市场,也是中世纪宗教裁判所处决和焚烧受害者的地方。 游客可以在咖啡馆休息,品尝这里的煎饼。 广场四周的建筑非常独特。

Vismarkt

Everyone will no doubt notice this extraordinary building with Neptune sculpture. It is the old fish market, built in 1689. The two reliefs at the gateway depict allegorically the two main rivers in the city, Scheldt (male) and Leie (female). In the city’s history, fishmongers sold their goods here. The old Ghent people seem to be reminiscent of their passes. The poster at the gate is an advertisement in Dutch saying: Toch zomerbar oude vismijn which means still the summer bar, the old fish market.

大家无疑都会注意到这座装饰有海王雕塑的神奇建筑。 这其实是旧鱼市,建于1689年。门口的两幅浮雕寓意着城市中的两条主要河流,Scheldt和Leie。 在根特的历史上,鱼贩在这里出售他们的商品。老根特人似乎很怀旧, 门口赫然可见的是荷兰语的广告:Toch zomerbar oude vimijn,意思是这里是夏日酒吧,曾经的老鱼市。

Kraanlei

Kraanlei is a riverbank at where the fish market is located. It took its name from a wooden crane (kraan). In the 16th century, it was used for unloading barges. At that time, the region of Flanders is one of the most prosperous in Europe. There are frequent commerce in the riverbank. Ghent is also called Mediaeval Manhattan during that period.

Kraanlei是鱼市所在的河岸。 它的名字来自木制起重机(荷兰语:kraan)。 在 16 世纪,这里是被用于卸载驳船的地方。 当时,佛兰德地区是欧洲最繁华的地区之一。 沿河商业频繁。 在那个时期,根特也被称为中世纪的曼哈顿。

At Kranlei, there are two stylish baroque houses ‘The Flute Player’ and  ‘the Seven Works of Mercy’. The two fresco decorated houses stand with each other. There is a red relief of flute player at the top of the gable of the house at right. For the house at left, only six paintings are created on the façade. They represent 7 compassionate acts in Catholic belief. It is said that since this was originally an inn, the fourth work (hosting the strangers) was done in the building itself.

在 Kranlei,有两个别具一格的巴洛克风格房屋“长笛演奏家”和“七种慈善”。 两座壁画装饰的房屋互相倚靠。 右侧房屋山墙顶部有吹笛者的红色浮雕。 左侧的房子,只在立面上创作了六幅画。 它们代表了天主教信仰中的 7 种慈善的行为。 据说由于这里原本是客栈,所以第四项慈善行为(收容陌生人)对应的就是这座建筑本身。

Vrijdagmarkt 

Next I arrived at a large square which is not far away from the Kraanlei. Every Friday morning the square is filled with market stalls. It is a local tradition dating back to 1199 so this square is called Vrijdagmarkt which means Friday market in Dutch. In the center of square, it is the statue of Jacob van Artevelde. He was a Flemish statesman and political leader, known as The Wise Man and the Brewer of Ghent during the Hundred Years’ War. He was remembered due to his exploit of revitalizing the trade and industry of Ghent.

接下来我来到了离Kranlei不远的一个大广场。 每个星期五早上,广场上都挤满了熙熙攘攘的摊位。 这是一个上至1199 年的当地传统,因此这个广场被称为 Vrijdagmarkt,在荷兰语中意为周五市场。 广场中央是雅各布·范·阿特维尔德的雕像。 他是一位佛兰德政治家和政治领袖,在百年战争期间被称为“智者”和“根特缔造者”。 他因振兴根特的贸易和工业而被人们铭记。

St James Church

In Europe there is a pilgrims’ way leading to the shrine of the apostle Saint James in Santiago de Compostella, Spain. There are many churches dedicated to St James in different countries. They become meeting places for local residents and pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella. This Saint James church in Ghent is one of them which history could be traced back to 11th century. This church contains many Baroque elements and art. It locates near the Vrijdagmarkt.

在欧洲,有一条通往西班牙圣地亚哥孔波斯特拉的使徒圣詹姆神殿的朝圣之路。 在不同的国家有许多纪念圣詹姆的教堂。 它们成为当地居民和朝圣者前往圣地亚哥德孔波斯特拉中途的聚会场所。 根特的这座圣詹姆教堂就是其中之一,其历史可以追溯到 11 世纪。 这座教堂包含许多巴洛克元素和艺术。 它位于 Vrijdagmarkt 附近。

King Albert Park

Except the old buildings, city parks in Ghent worth a visit as well. Most parks are in the south of the city. The King Albert Park was a neo-baroque park built on the former Gent-Zuid train station in 1930. After the death of King Albert I, it was officially called King Albert Park. In the center of square, it is the War memorial.

除了古老的建筑,根特的城市公园也值得一游。 大多数公园都位于城市的南部。 阿尔伯特国王公园是一座新巴洛克风格的公园,于1930年在原根特南火车站建立。阿尔伯特一世国王去世后,他被正式称为阿尔伯特国王公园。 广场中央是战争纪念碑。

The Citadelpark

The last place I visited in Ghent is this Citadelpark which is extremely near the Gent-Sint-Pieters station. At the last moment, I just sat here cozily and waited for the arrival of the train. I enjoyed its relaxing environment, the white swans swimming in the lake and the doves pecking on the green grass. Ghent is not a well-known travel place but it has its unique charm and elegance that deserves to be explored by travelers. Even today I still immerse myself in the memory of this city full of aesthetic feeling. There is no need to look for its beauty specifically. Its pulchritude exists in every corner of the city.

我在根特参观的最后一个景点就是这个城堡公园,它非常靠近圣彼得火车站。 最后时刻,我唯有安逸地坐在这里,等待火车的到来。 这里放松的环境,湖中自在嬉耍的白天鹅和啄食绿草的鸽子令我赞叹不已。 根特并不是一个知名的旅游胜地,但它有着独特的优雅和魅力,值得旅行者去一探究竟。 时至今日,我仍然沉浸在对这座充满美感的城市的美好回忆中。 无需特意追寻它的美, 它的动人存在于城市里的每一个角落。

Brugge – the Venice of the North

布鲁日-北方的威尼斯

Springtime – Luke Faulkner

Brugge is one small but elegant city in the Flemish Region of Belgium. It is famous for its gothic architecture in the medieval time and the outstanding Flemish arts. Its historic center completely preserves the original physiognomy hundred years ago. Its quiet swan lake, tortuous canal, and idyllic park attract the touristes all around the world. I still remember when I checked in in the evening of 11 September 2020, the hotel manager told proudly to me that he was lucky to live in this beautiful city.

布鲁日是比利时佛拉芒地区的一个小而优雅的城市。它以其中世纪的哥特式建筑和杰出的佛拉芒艺术而闻名。它的老城区完整保留了几百年前的原貌。它宁静的天鹅湖,曲折的运河和田园诗般的公园吸引着世界各地的游客。我仍然铭记2020年9月11日晚上办理入住手续的那一刻,酒店经理自豪地告诉我,他很幸运能生活在这个美丽的城市里。
The Markt

The historic Centre of Brugge is listed as the UNESCO world heritage in 2000. The city’s landmark is this square called ‘Market Square’. When I arrived at the hotel, it was a deep night so I only took some minutes to walk around nearby. It was a serene night with a slight biting coldness of autumn. At this moment, only a few visitors were still scattered on the square. Under the dim and shadowy lights along the streets, the darkness of night could not conceal the glamour of this medieval city.

历史悠久的布鲁日老城区在2000年被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产。这座城市的地标是这座市场广场。当我到达酒店时,已是深夜,所以只用片刻时间到附近寻寻觅觅。这是一个寂静的夜晚,秋天清冷略微刺骨。此刻只有少数游客散落在广场上。在街道旁昏暗的灯光下,漆黑的夜晚却无法掩盖这座中世纪老城的魅力。

Minnewater park

Next morning, I started my memorable trip from the south of th city. The Minnewater park is located in this area, just a stone’s throw away from the train station. ‘Minnewater’ is the name of this tranquil and crystal lake which means the lake of love. In the chill morning of automn, the green willows on the bankside are shrouded in the light smog like water mist . The surface of the lake is flat like a smooth and shiny copper mirror.

第二天早上,我从这座城市的南部出发开始了这段难忘的旅行。 Minnewater公园就位于该区域,距火车站仅一步之遥。 “ Minnewater”是这个静谧清澈的湖的名字,意为爱之湖。寂静清秋,绿杨烟外晓寒轻。爱情湖畔,潭面无风镜未磨。

It is a perfect place for lovers to date. There was an old story of a pretty girl named Minna who was in love with Stromberg, a warrior of a neighbouring tribe. However, her father did not agree with her love. Not willing to accept the arrangement of fate, Minna escaped sadly from her family and ran into the forest of Brugge. When Stromberg finally found her, she died in his arms. The lake was named after Minna and the bridge straddling the lake was considered as the bridge of love. It was said that if you walk over the bridge and kiss your loved one, it will become eternal love.

这里是恋人的理想约会场所。千年以来有一个古老悲伤的爱情故事,一个名叫Minna的漂亮女孩爱上了一个邻国部落的战士Stromberg。但是,她的父亲不同意这段感情。 Minna不愿接受命运的安排,悲愤之中离家出走,跑进了布鲁日森林。当Stromberg终于找到她时,她死在了他的怀里。所以此湖以Minna的名字命名,横跨此湖的拱桥被认为是爱之桥。据传如果谁走过桥并亲吻挚爱的人,那他将获得永恒的爱情。

This lake was once the mooring place for barges that sailed the inland waterways between Brugge and Ghent. Nowadays, it is a reservoir and joined to the city’s canal system. We can see many wild animals here for example swan, the symbol of the city. In 1488, the people of Brugge executed one of the town administrators of Maximilian of Austria whose family coat of arms featured a white swan. It was said that Maximilian punished the local people by forcing them to keep white swans on their lakes and canals.

这个湖曾经是驳船的停泊地,是航行于布鲁日和根特之间的内陆水道的一部分。如今,它已成为一个水库,并已连接到城市的运河系统。我们在这里可以看到许多野生动物,例如天鹅,这座城市的象征。 1488年,布鲁日人民处决了奥地利马克西米利安家族的一位城镇行政官。他的家族徽章上有一只白色的天鹅。据说马克西米利安家族后来惩罚当地人,迫使他们在其湖泊和运河上养白天鹅。

Prinselijk Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde

Following the steps of swan, next I arrived at one place called Begijnhof. It is an enclosed area on one peaceful island with a small garden, twisted trees and a row of low white houses. It is the only preserved beguinage in Brugge. This area could be accessed through the three arche bridge in the picture.

跟随天鹅的脚步,接下来我到达了一个叫Begijnhof的地方。它是一个安静的岛屿上的封闭区域,岛上有一个小花园,扭曲的树木和一排低矮的白色房屋。它是布鲁日唯一保存下来的Beguignage建筑群。游客可以通过图片中的三拱石桥进入该区域。

Beguinage

The beguinage is an architectural complex which was created to house beguines who are the religious women living in community without taking vows or retiring from the world. This kind of building has a characteristic white-painted gable. In the first decades of the thirteenth century, beguinages were formed as the houses for beguines and they were built around a central chapel or church where their religious activities took place. Some beguinages in Belgium are listed as UNESCO World Heritage site in 1998.

Beguinage建筑群旨在容纳居住在社区中但不宣誓就职或从世俗世界中退休的半世俗女修道者。这种建筑都有一个标志性的白色山墙。在十三世纪的前几十年,Beguinage成为了女修道者的住所,它们围绕着进行宗教活动的中央教堂而建。比利时的一些Beguinage遗迹于1998年被列为联合国教科文组织的世界文化遗产。

Nowadays there are no more Beguines living here but since 1927 it has functioned as a convent for Benedictines. In this early morning, a ray of slanting sunlight shined on this religious land where some devoted benedictine nuns could be observed in this area. I just lingered a while here because the racket of tourists might disrupt the halcyon atmosphere.

如今,半世俗修道女不再居住在这里,但自1927年以来,它一直是本笃会的修道院。清晨的一道斜阳照耀在这片宗教乐土上,周围可以看到零星的虔诚修女。我在这里只逗留片刻,因为游客的喧闹可能会破坏宁静的气氛。

There is another bridge in the north to connect this isolated land of idyllic beauty with the outside mundane world. The canal of Brugge flows towards north of the city. Its bank is overgrown with a lavish profusion of vegetations.

这片区域北部还有一座桥,将这片田园般的净土与外界的世俗之地连接起来。布鲁日运河也由此流向城市北部,它的河岸长满了茂密的植被。

The life style in Brugge is admirable. This is one photo taken on the bridge of Zonnekemeers. Its bridge is decorated with sun flowers of multiple colors. The carefree local people at the waterfront were having breakfast cozily and enjoyed the sunlight of early morning. What a beautiful day!

布鲁日的生活方式令人羡慕不已。这是在Zonnekemeers桥上拍摄的一张照片。桥上装饰着姹紫嫣红的太阳花。在水一方的无忧无虑的当地居民不紧不慢地享受早餐和清晨的阳光。多美好的一天!

Saint John’s hospital

Following the babbling stream, next I arrived at this old building at the riverside. The Saint John’s hospital used to be a place where travellers could find shelter. It was also one hospital in the medieval ages and nowadays it was expanded to be a monastery and convent.

跟随着潺潺溪流,接下来我来到了河边的这座老建筑。圣约翰医院曾经是旅行者寻找临时住所的地方。它也是中世纪的一所医院,如今已扩展为修道院。

Memling Museum

The hospital was founded in the 12th century, called Sint-Janshospitaal in Dutch. This was the entrance of the museum. Its façade was designed with a mixed romanesque and gothic style. The museum exhibits the works of one of Flanders’ most famous artists, Hans Memling. 

该医院始建于12世纪,荷兰语中称为Sint-Janshospitaal。这里是博物馆的入口。其立面采用罗马式和哥特式混合风格设计。该博物馆展出了佛兰德地区最著名的艺术家汉斯·梅姆林的作品。

The St Ursula Shrine

The Shrine of St. Ursula is a carved and gilded wooden reliquary containing oil paintings completed by Hans Memling in 1489. The shrine is in the shape of a Gothic chapel. It depicted the scenes of St. Ursula like the Coronation of the Virgin with the Holy Trinity and St. Ursula Protecting the Holy Virguns and his arrival in Cologne, Basel, Rome.

圣乌尔苏拉神殿是汉斯·梅姆林(Hans Memling)于1489年完成的包含油画的镀金雕刻木制圣物箱。该神殿为哥特式教堂的形状。它描绘了圣乌尔苏拉的活动场景,例如圣母加冕三位一体和圣乌尔苏拉保护圣维尔古斯以及他驾临罗马,巴塞尔和科隆的场景。

There is a courtyard in front of the museum. I really enjoyed the quiet environment here. People could sit on the benches and bask in the sun leisurely. The architecture was extraodinary as well. All the brick walls eroded by ages are brown-red colored in nature with a classic style. The houses with low chimneys and gabled roof were totally different with what I have seen in Italy and France.

博物馆前有一个开放式庭院。我很喜欢这里安静的环境。人们可以坐在长椅上,悠闲地晒太阳。这里的建筑也是超凡脱俗。历经岁月侵蚀的棕红色砖墙,具有厚重的历史感。低矮的烟囱和人字形三角墙屋顶的房子与我在意大利和法国看到的完全不同。

Through this old archway, I was at the foot of another landmark of Brugge – the Church of Our Lady. This church was famous for its 122-metre brick steeple, which could be seen in every corner of the city. It took totally two centuries (from 13th century to 15th century) to build the church. What a miracle!

穿过这个古老的拱门,我站在布鲁日的另一个地标脚下-圣母教堂。这座教堂以其122米高的砖尖塔而闻名,在城市的每个角落都可以看到它。建造教堂总共花了两个世纪的时间(从13世纪到15世纪)。真是个奇迹!

The Church of Our Lady

This church is called ‘Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk’ in the local language. It is behind the Saint John’s hospital. This catholic church is in Gothic style with many typical flying buttresses on its exterior. Its tower is the second tallest brick tower in the world.

该教堂在荷兰语被称为“ Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk”。它在圣约翰医院的后面。这座天主教教堂为哥特式风格,外部有许多典型的飞拱。它的尖塔是世界上第二高的砖塔。

The Madonna and Child

The most spectacular art treasure of the church is the white marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child completed by Michelangelo in 1504. It is located in the altarpiece of the large chapel and depicted the Virgin Mary and her son Jesus. This is an invaluable treasure because it was the only sculpture by Michelangelo which was outside Italy during his lifetime.

教堂最壮观的艺术瑰宝是米开朗基罗在1504年完成的叫圣母和她的孩子的白色大理石雕塑。它位于大教堂的祭坛上,描绘了圣母玛利亚和她的儿子耶稣的故事。它是米开朗基罗一生中创作的唯一在意大利以外的雕塑,是无价之宝。

The Gruuthuse house and museum 

Behind the Our Lady’s church, there is a museum to memorize the richest families of this city in the medieval time, the Gruuthuse family. This house was the palace of the lords of Gruuthuse in 15th century. Nowadays it is a museum with collections of tapestries, furniture, silverware, and musical instruments. The flag with eight white-red stripes with a blue lion in the center fluttering on the top of tower. This is the city flag of Bruges.

在圣母教堂的后面,有一个博物馆,用以纪念中世纪时该市最富有的家族,即格鲁特斯家族(Gruuthuse)。这所房子是15世纪格鲁特斯(Gruuthuse)的宫殿。如今,这是一个收藏有挂毯,家具,银器和乐器的博物馆。塔顶上飘扬着带有八个白红色条纹和蓝色狮子的旗帜。这是布鲁日的市旗。

This is the entrance of the museum. At the gate, we could see clearly the coat arm of the Gruuthuse family. In the old Flemish word ‘gruut’ means barley or wheat and huse means house. In the medieval age, Bruges was an important harbour and had a strategic location at the crossroads of the Hanseatic League and the southern trade routes. Wheat or barley was the main ingredient for beer-brewing. The lords of Bruges had full control of the trade at sea of these products. Because of the monopoly they became very wealthy and they were thus called Lord of Gruuthuse (wheat house).

这是博物馆的入口。在大门口,我们可以清楚地看到Gruuthuse家族的徽章。在旧的佛兰德语中,“ gruut”一词表示大麦或小麦,而huse表示房屋。在中世纪,布鲁日是重要的港口,在汉萨同盟和南部贸易路线的十字路口上,具有重要的战略意义。小麦或大麦是啤酒酿造的主要成分。布鲁日的领主完全控制了这些产品的海上贸易。由于垄断,他们因此变得非常富有,就被称为Gruuthuse爵士。

Bonifacius Bridge

The museum of Gruuthuse is at the riverside and connected to the other side by the Bonifacius bridge. This is a relatively young brick bridge that could be dated back to 1910. There is legend that once you cross the bridge the first person you see on the other side is the one you will marry.

Gruuthuse博物馆坐落在河边,并通过Bonifacius桥与另一边相连。这是一座建造相对较晚的砖桥,其历史只可以追溯到1910年。根据当地传说,过桥之后,在对岸看到的第一个人以后就要执子之手,与子偕老。

This is one of the most beautiful places of Brugge. Many touristes will flock to the bridge to take the photo of the Our Lady’s church but for me I prefered the scenes of these old houses at the other side of the bank which was similar to the water town in southeast China.

这是布鲁日最美丽的地方之一。许多游客都会涌向这座桥,以拍摄圣母教堂的照片,但对我来说,我更喜欢河对岸的这些老房子,这与中国江南的小桥流水人家及其相似。

Rozenhoedkaai

After I crossed the bridge and continued to walked along the river, I arrived at this picturesque view point. This is the most well known landmark of Brugge – the Quay of the Rosary, Rozenhoedkaai in Dutch. All the touristes will frame this fairytale like landscape into their cameras.

过桥夹岸数百步,就到了这个风景如画的景点。这是布鲁日最著名的地标-玫瑰码头,荷兰语为Rozenhoedkaai。所有游客都会不约而同将这副童话般的美景永久记录到摄像机镜头中。

From the quay, touristes could take the small boat and cruise in the canal together with the swans. The charming scenery here is like a post card. All the 15th-century buildings with medieval façades along the river, the old bridge and the wooden docks are well preserved despite their age. The white tower in the background is the belfry of Brugge.

从码头出发,游客可以乘小船和天鹅一起在运河中荡舟遨游。这里迷人的风景就像一张明信片般。沿河,古老的桥梁和木制码头边所有具有中世纪外观的15世纪建筑都保存完好。背景中的白色塔楼就是布鲁日的钟楼。

Blinde-Ezelbrug

Nextm,I would head towards the north coast of the river across this bridge. Now I was standing near the Huidenvettersplein (Tanners Square) to take this photo. This stone bridge is called Blinde-Ezelbrug in Dutch which means blind donkey.

接下来我将穿过这座石桥前往河北岸。现在,我站在制革广场(Tanners Square)附近拍摄这张照片。这座石桥在荷兰语中称为Blinde-Ezelbrug,意为盲驴。

Huidenvettersplein (Tanners Square)

A column of two lions and the emblem of the tanners is erected in the center of the Tanner square. It was a little square. In the Medieval Times, this was the location where the tanners worked their leather, but today it’s a place for local people to take a break on the cafe terraces.

在制革广场的中间竖立着一个装饰有两头狮子和制革工人的标志的立柱。那是一个小广场。在中世纪时期,制革工人曾在此鞣制皮革。今夕,这里是当地人在咖啡馆露台上休息乘凉的地方。

Blinde-Ezelstraat (Blind Donkey Street)

The Blinde-Ezelstraat (Blind Donkey Street) is one alley connecting with the bridge that I mentioned above. It was called with such a funny name because there was an inn here during the 15th century called Den Blinden Ezel (the blind donkey). This old brick paved road leads to the city hall of Brugge. I liked the vault of the arch decorated with three sculptures of saints.

Blinde-Ezelstraat(盲驴小道)是一条与我上面提到的桥梁相连的小巷。之所以这么称呼它是因为15世纪在这里有一个叫做Den Blinden Ezel(盲驴)的旅馆。这条由旧式砖石铺成的道路通向布鲁日的市政厅。我特别欣赏装饰有三圣徒雕塑的拱顶。

The Burg square

Exitting from the archway, I was arriving at an open space, the Burg square. In the ninth century, the count of Flanders chose the Burg square as his base of operation. It was so named due to the fortress built at this location by the first Count of Flanders in the 9th century. Nowadays, there is no more fortress but there are some major buildings instead like the city hall, the Palace of the Liberty, and the Basilica of the Holy Blood.

从拱门出来后,我到了一个宽敞的场所,即伯格广场。在九世纪,佛兰德伯爵选择伯格(Burg)广场作为他的经营基地。这里之所以如此命名(Burg意思是有城堡的城),是因为9世纪法兰德斯伯爵(Count of Flanders)在此建造了一座堡垒。如今,堡垒已然不复存在,但取而代之的是一些主要建筑物,例如市政厅,自由宫和圣血大教堂。

The city hall

This building with 6 long windows, statues in the niche and 3 octagonal turrets was the city hall of Brugge built in 14 century. Its facade is in gothic style with the coat of arms of subordinate towns and flags of European unions, Belgium, and Brugge. The name Brugge is probably from the old-Scandinavian word ‘Brygga’, which means ‘harbor’. In 1277, the first merchant fleet from the Republic of Genoa arrived in Brugge to start the trade at sea. Its gothic hall which walls are painted with scenes depicts the historic events of this city.

这座带有6个长窗,小雕像和3个八角形塔楼的建筑是14世纪建造的布鲁日市政厅。它的立面是哥特式风格,带有附属城镇的徽章以及欧盟,比利时和布鲁日城的旗帜。布鲁日这个名字可能来自斯堪的纳维亚半岛的古老单词“ Brygga”,意思是“港口”。 1277年,第一批来自热那亚共和国的商船抵达布鲁日,开始海上贸易。市政厅中哥特式大厅的墙壁上是描绘了这座城市的历史事件的油画。

Basilica of the Holy Blood

In the corner of the square, we could find the Basilica of the holy blood. It is a double layer church which consists of a lower church Saint-Basilius chapel that has maintained its Romanesque character and a neo-Gothic upper church Holy Bloodchapel, in which the relic of the Holy Blood is preserved. The two chapels are connected by a brick staircase which is behind the facade facing the square.

在广场的一角,我们可以发现这座圣血大教堂。它是一个双层教堂,由一个下层的罗马式特征的Saint-Basilius教堂和一个上层的新哥特式教堂Holy Bloodchapel组成,其中保存了圣血遗迹。这两个小教堂通过砖砌楼梯相连,该楼梯位于面向广场立面的后面。

The Basilica of the Holy Blood was originally built in the 12th century as the chapel of the residence of the Count of Flanders houseing a venerated relic of the Holy Blood. The religious ceremony ‘Procession of the Holy Blood’ is held on each year’s Ascension Day in the spring. The bishop of Bruges carries the relic through the streets, accompanied by costumed residents. The tradition of the procession started from 1291 and is still followed today. It was included in the UNESCO’s list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009.

圣血大教堂始建于12世纪,是佛兰德伯爵住所拥有的私人教堂,里面装有尊贵的圣血遗迹。每年春季的升天日布鲁日都会举行宗教仪式“圣血游行”。布鲁日的主教手持圣物在盛装打扮的当地居民的簇拥下穿街过巷。圣血游行的传统始于1291年,一直保持到如今。 2009年它被联合国教科文组织列入人类非物质类文化遗产名录。

The Market Square (Markt)

At noon, I arrived at the symbol of the city – the market square. In the center of the market, it is the statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck who led the uprising against Philip the Fair in the Franco-Flemish War between 1297 and 1305. This square was used as a marketplace since 958 and nowadays it became the meeting place for the local people. The square is occupied by restaurants and bustles with touristes from all over the world.

中午,我到达了布鲁日的标志-市场广场。在广场中心,是扬·布雷德尔(Jan Breydel)和彼得·德·科宁克(Pieter de Coninck)的雕像,他们在1297年至1305年的法兰西佛兰德战争中领导了反对菲利普国王的起义。这个广场自958年以来就一直被用作集市,如今已成为当地人的聚会场所。该广场到处都是餐馆和熙熙攘攘来自世界各地的游客。

Moules-frites

I had a rich lunch at the restaurant in the market square. It was a wonderful place to satiate my hunger on one side and enjoy the scenery around the square on the other side. The Moules-frites is a main dish of mussels and fries ordered by me. It can be found in nearly every restaurant in Belgium and is considered the national dish of Belgium. Mussels are cooked in a sauce containing beer together with tomato, onion, and parsley in a pan. The mussels and fries are served separately. It was definitely a nice experience to taste foods all around the world.

我在广场的餐厅吃了一顿丰盛的午餐。这是一个很棒的位置,一边可以大快朵颐,一边可以欣赏广场周围的风景。 我点的主菜是青口贝和炸薯条。在比利时几乎每家餐厅都可以看到它,也被当作是比利时的国菜。青口贝在锅中用含有啤酒,番茄,洋葱和欧芹的酱汁烹饪而成,和炸薯条分开上桌。不得不说品尝世界各地的美食绝对是超凡的体验。

Provinciaal Hof (Provincial Court)

In the east side of the square, this neogothic building with 4 turrets and many small chimneys is the former meeting place for the provincial government of West Flanders. It was built in 1887 and used as the government meeting hall until 1999, and is now mainly a ceremonial building for exhibitions.

在广场的东侧,这座装饰4个塔楼和许多小烟囱的新哥特式建筑是西弗拉芒省政府的前聚议会厅。它始建于1887年,直到1999年都一直被用作政府的会议厅,现在主要是作为展览的观光建筑。

Craenenburg (Cranenburg House)

In the west of the square, there is a historic building called Cranenburg House that nowadays became a café or restaurant. In 1488 the Emperor Maximilian was incarcerated here and witnessed the execution of severel of his most loyal liegemen through one of the windows. Maximilian I was the Holy Roman Emperor, from the famous House of Habsburg. The flemish rebels openly rebelled against his reign twice in the period 1482–1492 and even caught him.

在广场的西侧,有一栋历史悠久的建筑,名为克兰堡屋(Cranenburg House),如今已成为咖啡馆或饭店。 1488年,马克西米利安皇帝(Emperor Maximilian)被囚禁在这里,并透过一扇窗户目睹了他最忠实的下属在广场被残忍处决。马克西米利安一世是著名的哈布斯堡王朝的神圣罗马帝国皇帝。佛兰芒叛军在1482–1492年间两次公开反对他的统治,甚至将他活捉。

This square is the assembly point of horse drawn carriages as well. Touristes could enjoy a wonderful city tour on the carriages following the rhythm of the horse’s trot on the slate. This would definitely be a unique and romantic experience for everyone who has never tried carriage ride.

这个广场也是马车的集合点。伴随着马蹄在石板路上的塌塌声,游客可以在马车上享受一次美妙之旅。对于从未乘坐过马车的人来说,这绝对是一次独特而浪漫的体验。

The Belfry

In the south of the square, it is the most prominent landmqrk of this city – the belfy. This bell tower of 83m height was the place where the important documents of the city were preserved. It was built in 1283 and its completion took two centuries’ time. This tower dominating the square became the symbol of city since its completion in 1483. When I sat at the square’s center, I really marvelled at this impressive architecture masterpiece.

在广场的南部,就是这座城市最最著名的地标-布鲁日钟楼。这座高83m的钟楼是保存城市重要文件的地方。它建于1283年,竣工花了两个世纪的时间。自1483年竣工以来,这座俯瞰广场的塔楼就成为城市的象征。当我坐在广场中央时,我尤为惊叹这座令人印象深刻的建筑杰作。

Touristes could climb this tower from this courtyard. There are totally 366 steps up to the top of the tower. There is a carillon with 47 melodious bells in 16 century in the tower. Nowadays, the bells still ring to indicate the time or announce fire alarm to the residents of this city.

游客可以从这个庭院爬上塔顶。到塔顶共有366个台阶。塔楼里有一个钟琴,上面有47个小铃铛。如今,悦耳钟声仍然会响起,给当地居民报时或者发布火灾警报。

Near the market place, there are some old houses with crow-stepped gables. They are orderly aligned along the roads. These are the traditional Belgium houses. The top of the parapet wall projects above the roofline and the top of the brick or stone wall is stacked in a step pattern above the roof as a decoration and as a convenient way to finish the brick courses.

在集市广场附近,有一些带有山形人字墙顶的老房子。它们在道路两旁整齐地排列。这些是传统的比利时民居。护墙的顶部凸出屋顶线,而砖墙的顶部则以阶梯状堆叠在屋顶上方,这是一种装饰和完成砖砌的便捷方法。

Belgium has the long tradition making chocolate. Its history could be traced back as far as 1635. The praline is an invention of the Belgian chocolate industry. It’s a form of confection containing culinary nuts, usually almonds and hazelnuts, and sugar. There are many shops of chocolate in this area but the price is not cheap. The price of this large royal box is 70 euros.

比利时有着悠久的制作巧克力的传统。它的历史可以追溯到1635年。果仁糖是比利时巧克力工艺的独特发明。果仁糖里包含坚果(通常是杏仁和榛子)以及糖。这一片有很多巧克力商店,但价格并不便宜。这个大的皇家巧克力盒的价格是70欧元。

Beer museum

Another interesting place near the market place is the Beer museum, opened in 2014. Here you could know more about the raw ingredients of beer, the brewing process, different kinds of beer in Brugge. The Flanders region was famous for its special beers since the Medieval Times.

靠近市场的另一个有趣的地方就是啤酒博物馆,该博物馆于2014年开业。在这里,游客可以了解到有关啤酒原料,酿造过程以及布鲁日各种啤酒的信息。佛兰德地区自中世纪以来就以其独特的啤酒而闻名天下。

There are more than 600 beers brewed in Belgium varies from pale lager to amber ales, lambic beers, Flemish red ales, sour brown ales, strong ales and stouts. This is the picture taken at one beer store. The Chimay beer is one kind of the famous Trappist beer made by the Chimay brewery. It consists of three ales: Chimay Rouge, Chimay Bleue, and Chimay Blanche. Another beer in the window is the Tripel. It is a strong pale ale made from the brewery Westmalle. Drinking beer is one culture for Belgians. In 2016, UNESCO inscribed Belgian beer culture on their list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity.

比利时酿造的啤酒有600多种,从淡啤酒到琥珀啤酒,兰比啤酒,佛兰德红啤酒,酸棕啤酒,和烈性黑啤酒。这是在一家啤酒店拍摄的照片。 奇美啤酒 (Chimay)是Chimay啤酒厂生产的一种著名的Trappist啤酒。它有三种麦芽酒:红奇美,蓝奇美和白奇美。橱窗里另一种啤酒是Tripel。它是由啤酒厂Westmalle生产的淡啤酒。喝啤酒是比利时人的一种文化。 2016年,联合国教科文组织将比利时啤酒文化列入了人类非物质文化遗产名录中。

Jan van Eyckplein (Jan van Eyck Square)

In the afternoon, I headed towards the north of the city. This was the Jan van Eyck Square, the so called Manhattan of Brugge. In the Medieval Times, it was a lively port where merchants assembled from all over Europe. There was a statue of the Northern Renaissance painter Jan van Eyck on the square.

下午,我前往城市北部。这里就是扬·范·埃克广场(Jan van Eyck Square),号称布鲁日的曼哈顿。在中世纪时期,这是一个热闹的港口,来自欧洲各地的商人聚集在此。广场上有北方文艺复兴时期画家扬·范·埃克的雕像。

Virgin and Child with Canon van der Paele

Jan van Eyck was a famous Netherlandish painter active in Brugge in 15 century who was one of the early innovators of Early Netherlandish painting, and one of the most significant representatives of Early Northern Renaissance art. His masterpiece ‘Virgin and Child with Canon van der Paele‘ was conserved in the Groeningemuseum in Brugge. It depicts the scene of The Virgin Mary being enthroned at the centre of the semicircular space, with the Christ Child on her lap.

扬·范·埃克(Jan van Eyck)是15世纪活跃于布鲁日的著名荷兰画家,他是早期荷兰绘画的创新者之一,也是早期北方文艺复兴时期艺术的最重要代表之一。他的代表作《圣母与圣婴》在布鲁日的格罗宁根博物馆中保存。它描绘了圣母玛利亚抱着圣婴加冕的场景。

Langerei

In the north of the square, there is a new canal called Langerei. It was a part of the canal connecting Ostend and Bruges. Most view points are distributed in the south and center of the city. There is nothing special to visit in the north and east of this canal except some town gates.

在广场的北部,有一条名为兰格雷(Langerei)的新运河。它是连接奥斯坦德和布鲁日的运河的一部分。布鲁日大多数景点分布在城市的南部和中心。除了一些城门外,在这条运河的北部和东部没有什么特别的景点。

The Kruispoort

The ramparts of Bruges are a six-kilometer park which almost completely surrounds the old town. Walking along this park, 4 remaining town gates could be found. This gate called Kruispoort dates back to the start of the 15th century. During its lifespan the gate has incurred some alterations. It was originally much bigger.

布鲁日的城墙如今是一个六公里长的公园,它几乎完全环绕了老城区。沿着这个公园散步,可以看到现今保留下来的4个城门。这座名为Kruispoort的大门可以追溯到15世纪初。在其使用期间,大门已进行了一些施工改动。它原本要大得多。

Bonne Chieremolen

Around the town gates, there are four ancient windmills. They stand on the remains of the earthwork bastions of the inner fortification line. The mill Bonne-Chièremolen in the picture was built in 1844 and nowadays it could not be used. It just stood silently at the river side and witnessed the vicissitude of time.

城门周围有四座古老的风车。它们立于内部城防线堡垒的遗址上。图中的Bonne-Chièremolen风车建于1844年,如今已无法使用。它只是静静地矗立在河边,目睹着岁月的变迁。

The Ezelpoort (Donkey Gate)

This is another town gate called The Ezelpoort (Donkey Gate). It was built during the construction of the second ring of ramparts at the end of the 13th century. It also incurred many structural changes. The original appearance of the gate was significantly altered in the 17th century. This castle like gate on the riverside was a good place to take beautiful pictures as well.

这是另一个叫做Ezelpoort(驴门)的城门。它始建于13世纪末第二圈城防建设时期。它也经历了许多结构上的改变。城门的原始外观在17世纪发生了重大变化。这座依河而建的类似城堡的大门,也是拍摄美丽照片的好地方。

When I left the town gates in the north, I was on my way back to the train station with endless memory and exclamations. The essence of Brugge had been visited by me in one day. Its beautiful canals, soaring towers, peaceful ambiance, brilliant culture, and old history had vividly left deep marks in my brain. I had to exclaim with amazement that this fairytale like city could only exist in the paradise and I have never heard or seen a similar one like it in the world!

当我离开城北的城门后,我伴随着无尽的回忆和感慨回到了布鲁日火车站。一天之内,我遍览布鲁日的精华。它美丽的运河,高耸的塔楼,宁静的氛围,璀璨的文化和古老的历史在我的大脑中生动地留下了不可磨灭的印记。我不得不感叹,此城只应天上有,人间能得几回闻!