The summer trip in the capital of Europe

欧盟之都夏日行

Victory

Brussels is the capital of European union and it is the first stop of my graduation trip in Low countries in September 2020. This was my first time of visiting Belgium and I had quite a high expectation of it. I took Flix Bus from Lille and it took around 1.5 hour to arrive at the city center of Brussel. When I was a child, I knew the legend story of the ‘Peeing Boy’. This time on my way, I really could not hold up the excitement in my heart.

布鲁塞尔是欧盟的首都,它也是我在低地国2020年9月毕业之旅的第一站。这是我第一次来比利时旅游,故此抱有很高的期待。 我从里尔乘坐 Flix巴士,大约 1.5 小时抵达布鲁塞尔市中心。 在我的孩提时代,我就知晓“撒尿小孩”的传奇故事。 路途上我便难以抑制心中的激动心情。

Palais de la Bourse

Brussel is famous of its architecture art. When I walked around the central boulevards, I took notice of its buildings which were somewhat similar of Paris. The first one is the former Brussels Stock Exchange building built in 1873. It combines the neo-Renaissance and Second Empire architectural styles. The Ionic column and entablature decorated with bas-relief is always my favorite. There is one interesting point: the two monumental lion sculptures on each side of the main entrance’s staircase represent the two stock market trends “bull and bear”.

布鲁塞尔以其建筑艺术而闻名。 当我在中央林荫大道上来回穿梭时,便感觉到它的建筑与巴黎的相似处。 我所见的第一眼是建于1873年的前布鲁塞尔证券交易所大楼。它结合了新文艺复兴和第二帝国的建筑风格。 艾奥尼亚柱和浅浮雕装饰的柱顶一直是我的最爱。 有一处很有意思:正门楼梯两边的两尊巨大的狮子雕塑代表了股市中的牛市和熊市。

Grand Place

In each city of Belgium, the unique city square in the city center justifies the aesthetic wealth and highly successful blending of architectural and artistic styles that characterizes the culture and society of Low countries. The square in Brussel called Grand place has been a marketplace since the 12th century. It is an enclosed area and surrounded by guild houses and market halls, which are still mostly built of wood. It is highly recommended to have a drink at the cafeteria in the square and admire the splendid beauty at the same time. The square has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.

比利时的每个城市中心独特的广场彰显了低地国家文化以及建筑美学和艺术风格的高度成功融合。 布鲁塞尔的广场被称为大广场,自 12 世纪以来一直是城市的集市。 这里是一个封闭的区域,周围环绕着中世纪公会房屋和市场大厅,大多是用木头建造的。 强烈建议在广场的咖啡厅小酌一杯,欣赏四周华丽的风景。该广场于 1998 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。

The Brussels City Museum

It is a cobbled rectangular market square, surrounded by Baroque guildhalls in the west and the city’s Town Hall in the south, and the Brussels City Museum in the north. In this picture, the neo-Gothic building with steep-sloping roof and spires is the King’s House in 1860 which houses the Brussels City Museum. It collects paintings, sculptures, and tapestries from medieval times. It is called the King’s house because the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V was crowned King of Spain in 1516. This building has a neoclassical arched portal and is decorated with the baroque style’s small elliptical oeil-de-boeuf windows. Many green-colored bronze statues are easy to be identified and have a stark contrast with the grey color of the main body.

它是一个鹅卵石铺就的长方形集市广场,西边是巴洛克风格的工会大厅,南边是城市的市政厅,北边是布鲁塞尔市博物馆。 在这张照片中,装饰有陡峭屋顶和尖顶的新哥特式建筑是 1860 年的国王居所,里面是布鲁塞尔市博物馆。 它收集了中世纪的绘画、雕塑和挂毯。 因为神圣罗马帝国皇帝查理五世于 1516 年加冕为西班牙国王,所以被称为国王之家。这座建筑有一个新古典主义风格的拱形门户,并装饰着巴洛克风格的小椭圆法式天窗。 许多绿色青铜雕像清晰可见,与主体的灰色形成鲜明对比。

This square is called the ‘Grand place’ but obviously it is not so large. At this moment, I was standing in the center of the square on the historical stone-paved ground. Usually this place is extremely crowded however during this special period of coronavirus, most tourists are forbidden to coming Europe and I seemed to be the only one existence here. Behind me, a number of guildhalls and a few private houses are reconstructed after the bombardment of 1695. Their stylish golden facades with their rich sculptural decoration including pilasters and balustrades and lavishly designed gables are based on my favorite Italian Baroque with some Flemish influences. I enjoyed the special feeling of standing or sitting in squares and looking around the old buildings like I have done it before in Venice, Paris, Florence etc. Feeling the culture of the city is the meaning of travel.

这个广场被称为“大广场”,但显然它并没有那么宏大。 此刻,我站在广场中心历史悠久的石板地上。 通常这个地方人潮涌动,但是在这个特殊的新冠时期,大多数游客被禁止进入欧洲,我似乎成为这里独一无二的存在。 在我身后,这些工会大厅和私人住宅在 1695 年的轰炸后重建。它们时尚的金色外墙以及丰富的雕塑装饰,包括壁柱和栏杆以及设计奢华的山墙均是我最喜欢的在佛朗德地区影响下的意大利巴洛克风格。 我喜欢在威尼斯、巴黎、佛罗伦萨等地静静地坐在广场上环顾老建筑的特殊感觉。感受城市的文化韵味是才是旅行的意义。

The Town Hall

The tallest building in the square is the town hall which was built between 1401 and 1455. It is very large building and is difficult to take the picture of its whole appearance. I tried to zoom in and record the numerous small statues on the façade clearly in my camera. These statues represent the local nobility and saints. The most spectacular thing is the 96 meters tall tower and is capped by a 2.7 meters statue of Saint Michael slaying a demon. Saint Michael is the patron saint of the city.

广场上最高的建筑是建于1401年至1455年之间的市政厅。这是一座非常庞大的建筑,很难拍下它的整体外观。 我试着将镜头放大,把立面上无数的小雕像清晰地记录在我的相机里。 这些雕像代表了当地的贵族和圣徒。 最壮观的是96米高的塔楼,塔顶是2.7米高的圣迈克屠魔雕像,圣迈克也是这座城市的守护神。

House of the Dukes of Brabant

When I was in the square, I was so busy in scrutinizing the every details of the buildings of different styles that I felt only two eyes were not enough for me. On the eastern side of the square, it’s one building close to French style, the House of the Dukes of Brabant. It is actually a set of seven guild-houses combined behind the same monumental façade and named after the nineteen busts of dukes of Brabant on the facade’s pilasters. It currently houses a restaurant and the square’s only hotel. Visitors could find the golden seals of the merchant trades that worked here centuries ago so it represents “Recovery of Trade and Industry.”

在广场上我忙于审视不同风格的建筑的每一个细节,顿时有种目不暇接的感觉。 在广场的东侧,是一座接近法式风格的建筑——布拉班特公爵府。 它实际上是一组由七个公会房屋组成的合体,位于同一巨大的立面后面,并以正立面壁柱上的 19 尊布拉班特公爵半身像命名。 它目前设有一家餐厅和广场上唯一的旅馆。 游客可以在这里找到几个世纪前在此间忙碌的商贸协会的金印,这些建筑也代表着“贸易和工业的复苏”。

In the south east corner of the square, there is a block of houses named in French. The house with a golden statue of a rider mounting on a horse is named of L’arbre d’or which means the tree of gold. It is House of the Corporation of Brewers dated from 1698 and is now converted into a brewery museum. Another houses at the right side of the L’arbre d’or is named of Le Cygne which is a romantic name, means swan. However, in the history of 17th century, it was the House of the Corporation of Butchers. It is very famous because Karl Marx wrote the Manifesto of the Communist Party in this house.

在广场的东南角,有一栋皆是法语名的房屋。 这座装饰着一尊骑在马上的骑手的金色雕像的房子法语叫做 L’arbre d’or ,意思是金树。 它是 1698 年的啤酒公司,现在改建为啤酒博物馆。 L’arbre d’or 右侧的另一座房子名曰Le Cygne,这是一个浪漫的名字,意思是天鹅。 然而,在 17 世纪时期它是屠夫公司。 它在历史上大名鼎鼎,卡尔马克思曾在这座房子里撰写了共产党宣言。

The monument of Everard t’Serclaes

The house at the rightest side is the Maison de l’Étoile which means the house of the star. At the archway of this houses towards the square, the monument of Everard t’Serclaes can be found on its wall. It was created in memory of Everard t’Serclaes, a Belgian hero, who led the local people dispelling the Flemish troops out of the city. He breathed his last breath and died in the Maison de l’Étoile. It is said that touching the hand of his statue brings good luck and health so don’t miss it when you visit Brussel.

上图最右边的房子是 Maison de l’Étoile,意思是星辰居。 在这栋房屋通往广场的拱门处,可以在墙上发现 Everard t’Serclaes 的纪念碑。 它是为了纪念英雄 Everard t’Serclaes 带领当地人民将佛兰德军队驱赶出城市。 他生前最后的弥留时刻就是在星辰居。 据说触摸他的雕像的手会带来好运和健康,所以访问布鲁塞尔时一定不要错过它。

The Royal Gallery of Saint Hubert

Brussel is good place of shopping as well. In the city center, there is one shopping arcades which is similar to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. The Galleries Royal is a long gallery of two upper floors designed by Belgian architect Jean-Pierre Cluysenaer, and established in 1846 as a fashionable place for shopping and chocolate tasting. Belgium is very famous for its chocolate so around this area you can find many stores of the most prestigious Belgian chocolate brands for example Pierre Marcolini.

布鲁塞尔也是一个购物天堂。 在市中心,有一个类似于米兰维多利亚长廊的购物商场。 这个皇家画廊是由比利时建筑师让-皮埃尔·克鲁伊森纳设计的两层长廊,建于 1846 年,是游客购物和品尝巧克力的绝佳场所。 比利时以其巧克力而闻名天下,畅游此地遍寻例如 Pierre Marcolini等众多负有盛名的比利时巧克力品牌。

Here is the end of the gallery. We can find many Italian Renaissance architecture elements here, for example, the utilization of columns, pilasters, and entablatures as an integrated system. It has one arched glass-paned roof which allows sufficient sunlight coming in.

这是画廊的尽头洋溢着众多意大利文艺复兴时期的建筑元素,例如柱子、壁柱和柱顶等系统的使用。 它还拥有一个拱形的玻璃屋顶,让充分的阳光照射进来。

Manneken Pis

There are so many architecture master pieces in Brussels. However, when we talk about this city, the first impression will be this famous statue called Manneken Pis which means little pissing man. It is a naked little boy urinating into the fountain’s basin. The statue was designed by the sculptor Jérôme Duquesnoy and put in place in 1618. The Manneken Pis is located in the corner of one street, just a stone’s throw away from the Grand Place. It originates from the legend in the 14th century. Brussels was under siege by a foreign army who conceived of a plan to place explosive charges at the city walls. A little boy named Julianske happened to discover the plot. He urinated on the burning fuse and thus saved the city. Manneken Pis is dressed in different costumes and changed several times each week. It is an unique feature of this city. Honestly saying, at the first glance, I was a bit disappointed because the statue was too small and always surrounded by tourists…

布鲁塞尔有众多建筑杰作。 然而,当我们谈论这座城市时,第一印象一定是这座名为 Manneken Pis 的雕像,即撒尿小童。 小男孩肆无忌惮在喷泉的水池里小便的雕像由雕塑家 Jérôme Duquesnoy 设计,并于 1618 年安置在这里。撒尿小童位于一条街道的拐角处,距离大广场仅一箭之遥。 它起源于14世纪的传说。 当时布鲁塞尔遭到外国军队的围攻,他们策划在城墙上放置炸药的阴谋。 也许上天有眼一个名叫朱利安斯克的小男孩碰巧发现这一切。 他迅速在燃烧的导火索上小便,从而拯救了这座城市。如今撒尿小童身着不同的服装,每周都会更换几次。 这也成为了这座城市的独特之处。 不过乍一看,确实有点令人失望,这座雕像实在太小了,而且总是被趋之若鹜的游客围个里三层外三层……

After several hours’ walk, I decided to find a place to fill my stomach. This restaurant is called Nooedzee, Mer du Nord is a bit different with the usual ones. It has a very large blue name plaque with a symbol of fish on it so people will think that it is fish shop. All the tables are outside the store maybe because of coronavirus. Their menu is written in French on the blackboard by hands. People just order at the counter and tell them your names. Then the food is served based on your names. I tasted the fish soup with cheese, oyster with lemon and fried cod which is suggested by the staff. The food ingredient is extremely fresh but the amount is too small. Anyway this is my first taste in Belgium and it’s always imporatnt to keep a good mood..

几个时辰的奔波后,我决定找个地方大快朵颐一番。 这家名为Nooedzee, Mer du Nord的海鲜餐厅与通常的海鲜餐厅有些不同。它有一个很大的蓝色牌匾,上面有一个巨大的鱼的标志,路人们也许会误判它为鱼店。可能因为新冠疫情它所有的桌子都陈列在餐厅外面。 他们的菜单是用法语手写在黑板上的。 人们只是在柜台订购并告知店员你的名字。 然后根据姓名上菜。 我品尝了工作人员推荐的搭配奶酪的鱼汤、牡蛎和炸鳕鱼。 这里的食材确实非常新鲜,不过分量略少。 不管怎么,这是我在比利时的第一次的品尝, 保持好的心情才是最重要的。

The Place des Martyrs

In every city of Europe, there are many squares with hundred years history. You don’t need to look for them intentionally. When you pass by them occasionally, you will be amazed by their elegances. The Place des Martyrs is a historic square which name represents the martyrs of the September days of the Belgian Revolution of 1830. It symbolizes the sacrifice of 466 persons who died in the fights of September 1830 for the independence of Belgium from the United Kingdom of the Netherlands. This neoclassical square was designed in 1773. It is paved by cobble stone. Walking around the square, I could discover some monuments memorizing the heroes of Belgium.

在欧洲的每个城市,都有众多具有百年历史的广场。 无需刻意探寻也许当你偶遇之时,就会被这种优雅而折服。 这座烈士广场也是一个历史悠久的广场,其名代表 着1830 年比利时九月革命的烈士。它象征着 466 名在 1830 年 9 月为比利时脱离荷兰独立而战死的烈士。 这座新古典主义的广场最早设计于 1773 年,由鹅卵石铺成。 走在广场上,可以看到许多纪念比利时英雄的纪念碑。

The Congress Column 

Next, I was travelling along one street called Royale Street. There are many historical buildings relating to the creation of Belgium Kingdom and the royal family on this street. The first one is this high rising column that looks like Trajan’s Column in Rome. It commemorates the creation of the Belgian Constitution by the National Congress of 1830. It was erected between 1850 and 1859 according to a design by Joseph Poelaert. At the top of the column is a statue of Belgium’s first king Leopold I and at its base, the pedestal is surrounded by bronze statues personifying the four freedoms guaranteed under the Constitution including freedom of education, association, worship, and press. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier with an eternal flame lies at its foot. Brussel is the capital of Belgium so there will be some landmarks relating to government.

接下来,我沿着名曰皇家大街的主干道继续我的旅行。 这条街上有许多与比利时王国以及王室建立有关的历史建筑。 第一个便是这个神似罗马图拉真之柱的高耸的大立柱。它是为了纪念 1830 年国民议会制定的比利时宪法。它是根据约瑟夫·波拉尔特的设计于 1850 年至 1859 年之间竖立于此。 柱子顶部是比利时第一任国王利奥波德一世的雕像,基座周围环绕着青铜雕像,体现了基本宪法保障的教育、结社、宗教和言论等四项自由。燃烧着长明火焰的无名战士墓就在它的脚下。布鲁塞尔是比利时的首都,故此拥有大量与政府有关的地标。

Place Royale

Neoclassical architecture is very popular in Belgium during the period of Austrian occupation in the mid-18th century and existed through periods of French and Dutch occupation, until the birth of Independent Belgium. This royal square is a typic neoclassical architecture and built between 1775 and 1782. The Governor of the Austrian Netherlands, Prince Charles Alexander of Lorraine proposed to build it like the Place Stanislas in Nancy so its design follows the Place Stanislas with a statue in the center of the rectangular and symmetrical square surrounded by pavilions in the corner. The statue represents Godfrey of Bouillon the leader of the First Crusade waving the standard.

新古典主义建筑在 18 世纪中叶奥地利占领时期的比利时非常流行,并同时存在于法国和荷兰占领时期。 这座皇家广场是一座典型的新古典主义建筑,建于 1775 年至 1782 年之间。奥属荷兰总督洛林的查尔斯·亚历山大王子提议将其依照南锡的斯坦尼斯拉斯广场一样建造。因此其设计完全沿用了斯坦尼斯拉斯广场的理念,在对称的正方形的广场中央有一尊雕像 ,四角楼阁环抱。雕像代表第一次十字军东征的领袖戈弗雷挥舞着胜利旗帜。

Brussels Park

During the period of constructing the Royal square, Brussels Park is another part of the urban project as well. It is formerly known as the Royal Park because it lies on the site of the gardens of the former Palace of Coudenberg. This entrance is directly opposite to the Royal Palace of Brussels. It has a monumental fountain.

在建造皇家广场期间,布鲁塞尔公园也是城市项目的另一部分。 它以前被称为皇家公园,位于前库登堡宫花园的遗址上。 这个公园入口就在布鲁塞尔皇宫的正对面,有一个巨大的标志性喷泉。

The Royal Palace of Brussels

The royal palace of Brussels is just in the south of royal square. This area is the location of old Coudenberg Palace, a very old palatial that dated back to the Middle Ages but was ruined in a fire. The new palace is built on its original site. It is the official palace of the King and Queen of the Belgians and houses the services of the Grand Marshal of the Court, the King’s Head of Cabinet, the Head of the King’s Military Household and the Intendant of the King’s Civil List. The Palace is also the location of receptions of foreign Heads of State during official visits. However the king and his family don’t live here. Their residence is in the Royal Palace of Laeken in northern Brussels.

布鲁塞尔王宫就位于皇家广场的南面。 这个地区是旧库登堡宫的所在地,这是一座非常古老可以追溯到中世纪的宫殿,但在一场大火中被毁。 新宫殿建在原址上。 它是比利时国王和王后的官方所在地,同时也是法院内阁首脑、皇家军事首脑和文职大臣的工作场所。 布鲁塞尔王宫也是接待外国国家元首的官方地点。 然而,国王和他的家眷却不住在这里。他们的私人住所位于布鲁塞尔北部郊区的拉肯皇宫。

This building has an impressive façade. Its main color is gray with classical decoration and its style especially the flat roof really looks like a French building. The entrance of the palace is free and it’s worth of visiting it that records the history of Belgium. I enjoyed the cozy environment in this area. There are many open spaces. I could walk around freely and take the pictures in the preferred angle.

这座建筑的外观令人印象深刻。 它的主色调为灰色,古典的装饰风格。特别是平铺的屋顶感官上极其接近法式建筑。参观宫殿的是免费的,这座记录比利时历史的宫殿值得一游。 我很中意这片区域的舒适环境。放眼望去有诸多空地可以自由走动并以喜欢的角度进行拍摄。

The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium 

In this old royal district, there are many museums. The most representative one is the Royal Museums of Fine Arts. It collects over 20,000 drawings, sculptures, and paintings, which date from the early 15th century to the present. The museum was founded in 1801 by Napoleon Bonaparte. On its façade, 4 sculptures of figures atop the four main piers represent 4 forms of arts: Music, Architecture, Sculpture, and Painting. The three rondels represent the greatest Belgian artist at that time: Rubens, Van Ruysbroek, and Jean de Bologne.

这片曾经的皇家区域还包括众多博物馆。 最具代表性的是皇家美术博物馆。 它收集了从 15 世纪初至今的 20,000 多幅素描、雕塑和绘画作品。 该博物馆由拿破仑于 1801 年创立。 在正立面上的顶上4 个人物雕塑代表了 4 种艺术形式:音乐、建筑、雕塑和绘画。 这三个圆盘浮雕代表了当时最伟大的比利时艺术家鲁本斯、范鲁斯布鲁克和 博洛尼亚的让。

Landscape with the Fall of Icarus

The museum is famous of collection of Early Netherlandish painting. This is one of the Netherlandish master piece drawn by Pieter Bruegel the Elder. The theme of this painting derives from one famous Greek mythology. In the story, Icarus flies with wings made by his father Daedalus who uses feathers secured with beeswax. However he ignores his father’s warnings and flies too close to the sun, melting the wax, and falls into the sea and drowns. In this picture, his legs can be seen in the water just below the ship.

这个博物馆以收藏早期荷兰绘画而闻名。 这是荷兰画家老彼得·勃鲁盖尔绘制的杰作坠落的伊卡洛斯。 这幅画的主题来源于一个著名的希腊神话。 在故事中,伊卡洛斯用他的父亲代达罗斯制作的翅膀飞翔,代达罗斯用蜂蜡固定的羽毛。 然而他无视父亲的警告,飞得靠近太阳,从而融化了蜡掉进了海水里淹死了。 在这张名画中,可以看到他坠落之后的腿掉入船下方的水中。

Église Notre-Dame du Sablon

When I continued to walk along the Royal street, I passed by one small garden and took a short break inside it. Opposite the garden, there is one cathedral called the Church of Our Blessed Lady of the Sablon. It was built in the 15th century with a Brabantine Gothic exterior and two Baroque chapels. Numerous small turrets and pinnacles make it different with other churches. In Europe, there are so many churches so most of time tourists could only pass by and leave a glimpse on them.

继续沿着皇家大道前行,途中路过一个小花园,顺便稍作休息。花园对面是一座名为萨布隆圣母教堂的大教堂。 它建于 15 世纪,拥有布拉班哥特式外观和两个巴洛克式教堂。 众多的塔楼和小尖塔令它与其他教堂卓尔不同。 在欧洲旅行,教堂实在数不胜数,大部分时间作为匆匆过客只能留下短暂的眼缘。

Square of Petit Sablon

The urban design in the low countries is superb. Even in this limited space in the city center, there is one small garden with benches for people to rest. This small garden called Square of Petit Sablon was built in 1890. It is surrounded by a wrought-iron balustrade, decorated with 48 bronze statuettes which represent the ancient crafts once practiced in Brussels. There are ten statues decorating the rear of the park, illustrating the country’s celebrated scholars and humanists the 16th century. The statues of the Counts of Egmont and Hornes in the fountain symbolize the fight against Spanish tyranny in the 16th century. The pedestal is decorated with the coats of arms of their families. The travel in Brussel is interesting. I just walked slowly and stopped when I found the new attractive elements.

低地国家的城市设计绝对是首屈一指。 即使在市中心有限的空间里,也能创造出一个带长凳的小花园供人们休息。 这座名为小萨布隆广场的小花园建于 1890 年。它被锻铁栏杆环绕,栏杆上装饰着 48 个青铜小雕像,这些小雕像代表了曾经在布鲁塞尔奋斗过的古老工艺人。公园后侧装饰着十尊雕像,展示了比利时 16 世纪著名的学者和人文主义者。喷泉中央埃格蒙特伯爵和霍恩斯伯爵的雕像象征着 16 世纪比利时与西班牙暴政的斗争。基座则装饰着他们家族的徽章。布鲁塞尔的旅行新奇有趣。安步当车般走走停停,不时发现新的惊喜。

Palais de Justice

At the end of the Royal street, there is a huge building standing on the high land of 20 meters’ height. It was the Palace of Justice, built between 1866 and 1883. It was the largest building constructed in the world in the 19th century. It’s a court building including the Belgium’s supreme court of law. This magnificent building suffered heavy damage during World War II even today most part of it is under renovation. Its dome and façade is covered in scaffolding.

在皇家大街的尽头,20米高的高地上矗立着一座巨大的建筑。 它就是建于 1866 年至 1883 年之间的司法宫。它是 19 世纪世界上建造的最大的建筑。 如今也是一座法院大楼,包括比利时的最高法院。 这座宏伟的建筑在二战期间遭受了严重破坏,即使在今天,大部分建筑仍在翻新,它的圆顶和正立面被脚手架如包粽子般完全覆盖。

Even from far way, I could still distinguish this immense grey building with a large golden dome. Its style is a mixture of different styles. The interior of the building is decorated lavishly. It has a monumental marble staircase with Roman columns. The statues at the two flanks are Demosthenes, the famous orator of ancient Athens and Lycurgus, lawgiver of Sparta who established the military-oriented reformation of Spartan society.

即使在远方,我依然可以辨认出这座巨大的灰色建筑的轮廓以及金色的大圆顶。 它的风格是不同风格的混搭。建筑内部装饰华丽。它有一个装饰着罗马立柱的巨大大理石楼梯。 两侧的雕像分别是古雅典著名演说家德摩斯泰尼和确立以军事为主的斯巴达立法者莱库古斯。

The Botanical Garden

Brussel is a large city with so many travel attractions that I had to take two days to visit them. My first day trip focuses on historical buildings in the city center. My second day trip includes some parks, gardens and private houses in the suburb. It was a sunny morning. Firstly, I visited this botanical garden. It’s an Italian garden with an orangery of a French geometry and a rotunda of French baroque style with dome and columns. The middle terrace in an Italian style, has a star-shaped rose garden and an Iris garden. I like this kind of green landscape interspersed in the crowded city.

布鲁塞尔是一个有诸多旅游景点的大城市,不得不花足足两天时间一一便览。 我的第一天旅行着重于市中心的历史建筑。第二天行程包括郊区的一些公园、花园和私人住宅。 这是一个阳光明媚的早晨。首先探足的便是这个植物园。这是一个意大利花园包含一个法式几何形状的橘园和一个带有圆顶和柱子的法国巴洛克风格的圆形大厅。中庭为意式风格的星形玫瑰园和鸢尾花园。我十分欣赏在拥挤的城市里点缀着绿色景观的布局。

Marie Louise Square

In the east of city, there is a district of middle-class residential area. There are some gardens around this area. Marie Louise square is one of the elegant gardens with ducks swimming in the pretty tree-lined pond surrounded by greenery. A jet of fountain water comes out of a small island in the center of the pond. The garden is named by the French queen Marie-Louise, the wife of Napoleon.

城东有一片中产阶级住宅区。区域周围有诸多花园。玛丽路易丝广场就是其中一个风格优雅的花园,鸭子在绿树成荫的美丽池塘边嬉戏。一股泉水从池塘中央的一个小岛上喷涌而出。这座花园由拿破仑的妻子法国女王玛丽-路易丝命名。

There are numerous eclectic style mansions around the park. In front of the houses, there is a large surface of lawn decorated with bronze statues. I believe that the residents in these house must have a pleasant life every day when they open the window and face the greeneries and beautiful view outside.

公园四周环布风格各异的住宅。这些房屋前有一大片草坪,上面装饰着青铜雕像。脑补一下这里的住户每天打开窗户,面对外面的绿色植物宜人的风景,心情一定是舒畅无比的。

Then I passed by a series of common resident houses of Art Nouveau style. Nouveau means new in French so it means new art or modern art. It was often inspired by natural forms such as the sinuous curves of plants and flowers. This house only has three floors. Each block is separated by a rail fence. Although the court yard is very small, there is still a small area left for planting roses. Green moss leaves marks on the upper step and the rose vine looks like a green curtain in the yard. The small balconies are designed in different forms and their walls are painted in different colors. This kind of house is more interesting compared with the monotonous high-rise condominiums in Asian countries.

接下来我无意间路过了一列新艺术风格(Art Nouveau)的普通民居。Nouveau 在法语中的意思是新的,所以它代表着现代艺术。 它通常受到自然形式例如植物和花朵的蜿蜒曲线的启发。这列房子只有三层。每个街区都由围栏隔开。庭院虽小,却留有一小块地种植玫瑰,宛然一种苔痕上阶绿,草色入帘青的感觉。小阳台被设计成不同的样式,墙壁也被涂上了不同的颜色。这种房子比亚洲国家单调的高层住宅有趣多了。

Cinquantenaire Park

Continuing towards the east of the city, at noon I arrived at another landmark of Brussels, the Cinquantenaire Park which means the Fiftieth Anniversary. It is comprised of a set of gardens dotted with monuments and museums and dominated by a U-shaped triumphal arch with three arches. At this moment, I was standing at the large esplanade in front the arch, a very good place of taking pictures.

继续东行晌午时分我来到布鲁塞尔的另一个地标——五十周年纪念公园。 它由一组散布着纪念碑和博物馆的花园组成,并以一个带有三个拱门的U形凯旋门为主。此刻我站在拱门前的大广场上,这是一个非常适合拍照的地方。

The Cinquantenaire Arcade 

The most notable building in the park is of course this arcade. At its top, there’s a bronze quadriga entitled of Brabant Raising the National Flag and several sculptures representing the major cities and province of Belgium like Antwerp, Liege, Namur… This monument was built in 1880 for the 50th anniversary of the independence of Belgium. The pedestal in both directions bears the inscription: “This monument was erected in 1905 for the glorification of the independence of Belgium”. (One direction is in French and another direction is in Dutch.)

公园里最著名的建筑当属这个拱廊。 在它的顶部,有一个名为国旗飘扬的青铜四尊马车和几座代表比利时主要城市和省份的雕塑,如安特卫普、列日、那慕尔……这座纪念碑建于 1880 年,以纪念比利时独立 50 周年 。两个方向的基座上都刻有铭文:“这座纪念碑于 1905 年树立于此,以此纪念比利时独立的荣耀”。 (其中一个方向是法语,另一个方向是荷兰语。)

Stoclet Palace

In the suburb of Brussels, there are some Art Nouveau style private houses which are listed as World Heritage Site by UNESCO. They illustrate the outstanding local architecture arts to the utmost. The Stoclet Palace is a private mansion in the east of Cinquantenaire Park, very far away from the city enter. It was designed by the Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann for the Belgian financier Adolphe Stoclet between 1905 and 1911. It is built in the Vienna Secession style. I have never seen this kind of style before. The artistes of this style resigned from the Association of Austrian Artists in protest against its support for more traditional artistic styles. It is a kind of transition from Art Nouveau toward modernism. This house has a tower of stacked cubic forms with minimum ornament on the façade. Of course from my view I could not get its aesthetical value but it is listed as UNESCO heritage site in 2009 due to its influence on modernism in architecture. This house is still a private house owned by the Stoclet family and not open for visit.

在布鲁塞尔郊区,有一系列被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的新艺术风格的私人住宅。它们最好地展示了当地优秀的建筑艺术。这座斯托克莱宫是一座私人住宅,位于五十周年公园东边,离市区已经很远。它是由奥地利建筑师约瑟夫霍夫曼在 1905 年至 1911 年间为比利时金融家阿道夫斯托克莱设计的。它采用维也纳分离派风格建造。我以前从未见过这种风格。这种风格的艺术家曾经从奥地利艺术家协会辞职,以抗议其支持更传统的艺术风格。这种风格是一种从新艺术风格运动向现代主义的过渡。这所房子有一座堆叠的立方体塔,立面上的装饰朴实无华。当然,孤陋寡闻的我无法理解它的美学价值。但由于它对现代主义建筑的影响,它在 2009 年被列为联合国教科文组织遗产。这所住宅如今仍然是斯托克莱家族的私人住宅,不对外开放。

The Horta Museum 

Before I visited Belgium, the only private residence that I visited was the house designed by Gaudi. This time, I was standing in front if the house of Victor Horta’s former house and workshop. Horta was an excellent Belgian architect and designer, and one of the precursors of the Art Nouveau movement. Four of his designed houses in Brussels are listed in UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. Among the 4 houses, this museum is the most important with display of furniture, utensils and art objects designed by Horta. He has a great reputation of brilliant joining of the curved lines of decoration which can be expressed in his design of the balcony.

在游览比利时之前,我曾经参观的唯一私人住宅就是高迪设计的房子。这一次,我站在另一个大师维克多霍塔的故居前。霍塔是一位杰出的比利时建筑师和设计师,也是新艺术运动的先驱之一。 他在布鲁塞尔设计的四栋房屋于 2000 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。在这四栋房屋里,这座霍塔博物馆是最重要的,它展出霍塔设计的家具、器皿和艺术品。 他以出色的装饰曲线设计而享有盛誉,这可以在他设计的阳台中得到体现。

This is the living room of Horta’s house built in 1898. Horta is good at using steel frames , large windows, and skylights above stairways to bring light into the structures. His style is totally different with Gaudi. He prefers the single plain color theme in his design. The design like wooden floor, wooden door frame, and metallic doorknob is a bit closer to the modern interior decoration.

这是霍塔建于1898年的房子的客厅。霍塔擅长使用钢架、大窗户和楼梯上方的天窗为整个结构带来充足的光线。他的风格与高迪完全不同。他更喜欢在设计中使用单一的纯色主题。木地板、木门框、金属门把手等设计更接近现代室内装饰。

This is his bedroom. The wall and carpet is in dark blue which has a contrast with the yellow furniture. Horta is a great designer who designed large projects like Brussels central station. However all the furniture in his house like chairs and wardrobes are designed by him as well. Generally his room is arranged in relatively simple way. He like the big glass window that looks like a modern floor-to-ceiling window as well. Due to his great ideas of open floor plan, sunlight could come into the house easily and create a cozy environment.

这是他的卧室。墙壁和地毯是深蓝色的,与黄色的家具形成鲜明对比。霍塔是一位伟大的设计师,他还设计了布鲁塞尔中央车站等大型项目。同时他的所有家具,如椅子和衣柜,也是他自主设计而成。总体来说,他的房间布置得比较简单。他也喜欢很接近现代落地窗的大玻璃窗。由于对开放式设计的使用,阳光可以轻易进入房间创造出一个舒适的环境。

Brussels is large city and it has a perfect urban development plan with a good transportation system as well. For tourists it is easy to travel all the sites that I mention above in two days. Belgian city is not so famous compared with France and Italy. But there are different elements like parks, museums, palaces, squares and private houses for you to explore the history of Belgium. The trip could also widen your visions especially if you have not any ideas of the Art Nouveau. So don’t miss it as your next travel destination after the coronavirus ends.

最后补充一句布鲁塞尔是一座大城市,拥有完善的城市规划和良好的交通系统。 对于游客来说,两天内游览我上面提到的所有景点易如反掌。与法国和意大利相比,比利时城市并没有那么出名。但也包括如公园、博物馆、宫殿、广场和私人住宅等不同的风格元素供游客探索比利时的历史。旅行还可以拓宽视野,特别是如果你对新艺术运动一无所知的话 那么布鲁塞尔一定是你新冠病毒结束后的下一个旅行目的地。

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