Torna A Surriento

重归苏莲托

Torna A Surriento

When I was in high school, the name of Sorrento was known to me because of the famous Neapolitean song Torna a Surriento by Luciano Pavarotti. The outset of the song is ‘Vide ‘o mare quant’è bello, spira tantu sentimento’ which means ‘Look at the sea, how beautiful it is, it inspires so many emotions’. From that time, I wondered how beautiful the coast is until in 20 July 2020, I finally visited this place and glimpsed the eternal azureness.

回首上学往事,曾因卢西亚诺·帕瓦罗蒂著名的那波利民歌“ 重归苏莲托”而知晓苏莲托小镇的大名。这首歌的开头是“凝视着苏莲托的大海,它是如此之美,激发了我无限的感情”。从那以后,我就异常神往那楚楚动人的海岸,这一斯执念直到2020年7月20日的盛夏,我终于亲临了这片神奇的土地,目睹了那一抹消失不去的湛蓝。

Piazza Tasso

Sorrento is a town located on the Sorrentine Peninsula accessible by the Circumvesuviana rail line from Napoli. It is quite convenient to come here from the Napoli Centrale station with just 3.6 euros. This town has the area of only 9 km2 so there is nothing special to visit here. This is the central area of Sorrento, the Piazza Tasso, named after the poet Torquato Tasso.

苏莲托是位于索伦丁半岛上的一个小镇,从那不勒斯可以做Circumvesuviana铁路线到达。经那不勒斯中央车站来此处旅游十分便利,全程只需3.6欧元。这个小镇的面积只有9平方公里,因此这里没有什么特别著名的景点。这是本镇的中心地区,塔索广场,以意大利诗人托尔卡托·塔索命名。

The town is surrounded by rough cliffs that rise 55 meters above the sea. The town look like being built on different layers. The town’s weather is the traditional Mediterranean weather; it is rich of vegetation like lemon trees. Lemon is the best choice for making homemade limoncello liqueur in Sorrento because its lemons are extremely aromatic with very few seeds.

苏莲托四周被悬崖峭壁包围,悬崖高55米。小镇层次感分明。该镇的天气是传统的地中海气候,柠檬树等植被丰富。苏莲托的柠檬是自制柠檬酒的最佳选择,芳香扑鼻,里面几乎没有籽。

Piazza Sant’Antonino

The Piazza Sant’Antonino is one square that is close to the Piazza Tasso. There’s a statue of Sant’Antonino in front of the Conservatorio Santa Maria delle Grazie which forms part of the Santa Maria delle Grazie church. The color style of many building in this town is light yellow, traditional color of Italien renaissance building.

圣安东尼奥广场是塔索广场附近的一个广场。圣安东尼的雕像竖立在圣玛利亚音乐学院之前,它们也是圣玛丽亚感恩教堂的一部分。这个镇上诸多建筑物的色调是传统意大利文艺复兴的浅黄色。

Villa Comunale

The Villa Comunale is small park on the cliff with beautifully-manicured gardens and the visitors could see one of the best views of the coast. There is a charged lift here and the visitors could take the lift down to the Marina Piccola coast.

这个Villa Comunale是悬崖上的一个小公园,中有修剪精美的花园,游客可以在这里欣赏到海岸景观。旁边有一个收费电梯,游客可以乘电梯到Marina Piccola海岸。

After short thinking, I didn’t take the lift because there is a steep paved road towards the bottom of the cliff. When I travelled in Europe, walk was always my first choise. For me, it was the best way to relax.

斟酌再三我舍弃电梯而选择了一条通向悬崖底部的陡峭石子路。当我在欧洲漫游时,步行始终是我的第一选择。对我而言,这是放松身心的最佳方式。

Marina Piccola

This is the transportation area of the marina. When I went down quickly to the bottom of the cliff, I found many travel boats and some crowding restaurants and bars here. Please stop here for a while and enjoy the most beautiful view of Sorrento is in this area.

这是海滨的公共交通区域。当我急速奔下悬崖的时候,我发现这里有很多的旅游船和熙熙攘攘的餐馆酒吧。要观赏苏莲托最美丽的景色就在此处驻足片刻吧。

The visitors could enjoy the beach in the summer, warm sun light and endless blue sky as far eyes can see at the Sorrento coast. Also the stylish houses faraway on the cliff hiding in the trees are remarkable.

游客可以在苏莲托海岸享受夏日的海滩,温暖的阳光和一望无际的蓝天。远处悬崖上在树木中若隐若现的独特风格的房屋也特别引人注目。

Most touriste will come here from Napoli or the coast of Amalfi by boat and rent a chaise longue under sun umbrellas at the sea side. They will bask idly in the bath of sun light for a whole beautiful day accompanied by red wine and beautiful girls.

大多数游客会乘船从那不勒斯或阿马尔菲海岸来这里,在海边太阳伞下租用公用躺椅。他们慵懒地与红酒佳人相伴在日光浴中潇洒地度过美好的一天。

This is one picture taken at the port. At this moment, when the warm intoxicating winds were blowing ashore, I am staring at the Mount Vesuvius which is visible at the far side of the sea and the sky. The sea reflects the pure azureness of the sky and both of them fuse together. Now it seams that my heart has also melted into this beautiful sea. Just as the song Torna a Surriento extolled ‘ chi ha girato tutto ‘o munno, nun l’ha visto comme’a ccà.’ (Even he has travelled all over the world, he has never seen a sea like this one.)

这是在港口拍摄的一张照片。当醉人的暖风吹向海岸时,我凝视着海空尽头的维苏威火山。大海反射出天空纯净的蓝色,两者几乎融为一体。此时似乎我的心也融化在这美丽的大海中。正如重归苏莲托歌词赞颂的那样,即使已经环游世界,我也从未见过如此壮丽的大海。

It is convenient to travel to other place nearby like Capri island and Amalfi from the port if the time is enough.By boat, you could fully experience the charisma of the sea in the Campania region.

如果时间充足的话,从港口前往周围的卡普里岛和阿马尔菲等地方也很方便,乘船可以充分体验坎帕尼亚地区大海的魅力。

For myself, travel is like on the way of looking for the new elements that I have never known before. I have to say that if I didn’t know the song Torna a Surriento, I would never come to this new land and would not know how it is. So I have to tell myself endlessly the meaning of the life is ‘always keep on exploring the novelty and your soul will be refreshed.’

对我而言,旅行就像是在寻找以前闻所未闻的新元素一样。不得不说,如果我不知道《重归苏莲托》这首歌,我将永远不会来片”新大陆”旅游也就不会了解这片异域风光究竟如何。因此,我心中的一个声音在不停地呼唤我。那就是生活的意义就是“持续探索新鲜领域,让自己的内心焕然一新”。

Follow the steps of Romeo and Juliet

追寻罗密欧与朱丽叶的足迹

Love Theme from Romeo and Juliet 

Verona is a small city in the west of Venice. It is an old city ruled by the Della Scala Family in 13th and 14th century. Its old history could be traced back to the Roman Empire. Nowadays there are many monuments in the city center built during these periods. That’s why it is classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The famous love story of Romeo and Juliet is set in Verona so it attracts many touristes to visit every year.

维罗纳是威尼斯西边的一个小城市。它是13世纪和14世纪间由斯卡拉家族统治的古老城市。它的悠久历史可以追溯到罗马帝国时期。如今市中心里有许多这些时期建造的古迹。这就是为什么它被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产。罗密欧与朱丽叶的著名爱情故事也发生在维罗纳,因此每年吸引着众多游客。

I arrived at this city on the noon of July 23rd 2020 and afterwards I would catch the train towards Turin in the evening so there are only several hours for me to visit it.

我于2020年7月23日中午到达这座城市,之后我晚上乘火车前往都灵,在此期间我只有几个小时参观它。

This is the statue of gladiator outside the Verona train station. When I left the station and walked towards the city center, I could see this statue. It seems to tell the visitors that this city has an old history and the culture inherited from the Ancient Rome.


这是维罗纳火车站外的角斗士雕像。当我离开车站走向市中心时就可以看到这尊雕像。它似乎告诉游客这座城市具有古老的历史和源于古罗马文化。

Portoni della Bra

The Portoni della Brà is the town gate, enclosing the Piazza Brà to the south. Originally the Portoni della Brà was not designed as a city gate but as a passageway between the Castelvecchio and the Citadel. Now the last remains of the walls of the former Citadel could be seen. Both the archways and the former citadel were built by Gian Galeazzo Visconti in the 14th century.


Brà 之门是城镇的大门,Brà 广场就在城门南部。最初它并不是作为城市大门而设计的,而是作为旧城堡与城墙之间的通道。现在依稀可以看到以前城堡遗留的痕迹。这座拱门和曾经的城堡都是由吉安·加莱佐·维斯孔蒂(Gian Galeazzo Visconti)于14世纪建造的。

Palazzo Barbieri

When I entered the city gate, I could find this palace at the Piazza Brà. The Palazzo Barbieri looks like the Roman building but it is actually the neoclassical style; it now serves as the town hall. It was designed by Giuseppe Barbieri and was completed by 1848.

当我进入城门时,这座宫殿在Brà广场赫然出现。这座巴比耶宫(Palazzo Barbieri)神似罗马建筑,但实际上是新古典主义风格。现在作为维罗纳的市政厅。它由朱塞佩·巴比耶(Giuseppe Barbieri)设计,于1848年完工。

Arena di Verona

In the north of the Piazza Brà, it is the famous Verona arena which is the third largest Roman amphitheatre in Italy. The arena was built in the 1st century AD by the Flavian emperors. The gladiators fought here bloodily for 400 years until the emperor Honorius prohibited the gladiator games in 404 AD. Nowadays, it became a perfect place to see the opera and theatre performances.

在Brà广场北部耸立着著名的维罗纳竞技场,它是意大利第三大的古罗马圆形竞技场。竞技场由弗拉维安(Flavian)皇帝于1世纪建造。角斗士们在这里血腥搏杀了400年,直到Honorius皇帝在公元404年禁止角斗士比赛。如今,它已成为观看歌剧和戏剧表演的理想场所。

Chiesa di san fermo maggiore

This was one old church nearby, the chiesa di san fermo maggiore. Its history could be traced to the 8th century.

这是附近的一座古老教堂San fermo maggiore。它的历史可以追溯到8世纪。

The campanile was completed in the 13th century and contains six bells cast in 1755. It rung with the Veronese bellringing art which is a unique style of ringing church bells that developed around Verona from the eighteenth century. The bells are rung full circle, being held up by a rope and wheel until a note is required.


教堂钟楼于13世纪建成,塔上是1755年铸造的6口钟。钟声的响动是一种维罗纳的钟音艺术,这是一种18世纪时期在维罗纳周边发展起来的独特教堂钟声。钟由绳子和轮子将其固定住响动整整一圈完成一个音符。

Statua di Umberto I

Near the church I could find the statue of Umberto I who was the King of Italy from 9 January 1878 until his assassination on 29 July 1900. Under his reign, the Triple Alliance with the German Empire and Austria-Hungary was formed. Also Italy has expanded their colonies in Eritrea and Somalia at that time.

在教堂附近可以看到翁贝托一世的雕像,从1878年1月9日到1900年7月29日被暗杀期间,他都是意大利的国王。在他的统治下确立了与德国和奥匈帝国的三国同盟。当时意大利还扩大了在厄立特里亚和索马里的殖民地。

Piazza Delle Erbe

Next I visited one square with very old history. The Piazza delle Erbe (Market’s square) was once the town’s forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Now it becomes one crowded marketplace selling clothes qnd small articles. The fountain in this picture is the Fountain Madonna Verona built in 1368 by Cansignorio della Scala. The statue called Madonna Verona was a Roman sculpture dating to 380 AD. 

接下来,我参观了一个有着悠久历史的广场。香草广场(Plazza delle Erbe)曾经是罗马帝国时期的广场。现在它变成了一个熙熙攘攘的杂货市场,出售衣服和小物件。这张照片中的喷泉是维罗纳圣女喷泉。它由Cansignorio della Scala于1368年建造。这座雕像是公元380年的罗马雕塑。

Torre dei Lamberti

In the square, there is one 84 m high bell tower. The Torre dei Lamberti was constructed in 1172. This tower could be seen from the city streets very far away. The main color style of city is brownish red, the tower and archway on the square also follow this pattern.

在香草广场上,有一座高84m的钟楼。Lamberti钟塔建于1172年。从遥远的城市街道上就可以看到这座塔。该城市的主色是棕红色,广场上的塔楼和拱门也遵循这种色调。

Palazzo Maffei

On the north-western side of Piazza delle Erbe, we could find this Baroque style building Palazzo Maffei in the 15th century. It has five arcades. Over each arcade there is a window with an elegant balcony separated by Ionic semicolumns. There are six sculptures of Greek god on the top of the building. In front of the palace, we could see a white marble column. It is St. Mark’s Lion, symbol of the Republic of Venice.

在香草广场的西北侧可以看到这座巴洛克风格的建筑Maffei宫,建于15世纪。它有五个拱廊。在每个拱廊上都有一个精致的阳台窗户,阳台之间被爱奥尼亚半柱隔开。建筑物顶部有六个希腊神雕塑。在Maffei宫殿前有一个白色的大理石柱。它是威尼斯共和国的象征圣马可雄狮。

Piazza dei Signori

Near the Piazza delle Erbe, there is another square, the Piazza dei Signori which was surrounded by the main buildings of the former city government, including the court and the seat of power of the Scaliger family. There is one statue of Italian poet Dante Alighieri in the middle of the square. Behind the statue, the yellow building is the Loggia del Consiglio. The Venetian Renaissance style house was built in 1476 by Fra Giocondo. It was decorated with columned double windows and small statues on the roof . The loggia with this kind of decoration is quite popular in Italy.

在香草广场附近,还有另一个广场-领主广场,它周围是前市政府的主要建筑,包括法院和Scaliger家族的权力所在地。广场中间有一尊意大利诗人但丁的雕像。雕像后面的黄色的建筑是Consiglio凉廊。这座威尼斯文艺复兴时期风格的房子由Fra Giocondo于1476年建造。它装饰有柱式的双扇窗户和屋顶上的小雕像。这种装饰的凉廊在意大利颇为常见。

Arche scaligere

The Scaliger family ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century so it has left deep imprints on this city. This is the view of the tombs of Scaliger family. The gothic style tombs are located in a court outside the church of Santa Maria Antica, separated from the street by a wall with iron grilles. The rule of the Scaliger reached its peak during the period of Mastino II (1308-1351) and his son Cansignorio (1334-1375). A statue of the knight locates at the top of the tomb of Cansignorio.

Scaliger家族从13世纪到14世纪末在维罗纳统治,因此在这座城市上留下了他们深刻的烙印。这是Scaliger家族陵墓的景色。哥特式墓群位于圣玛丽亚安提卡教堂外的庭院中,与街道之间被铁栅栏隔开。在Mastino二世(1308-1351)和他的儿子Cansignorio(1334-1375)时期,Scaliger家族的统治达到了顶峰。一座骑士雕像位于Cansignorio墓的顶部。

Santa Maria Antica

The Santa Maria Antica church is Romanesque in style and dates to 1185, rebuilt after the earthquake of 1117. The original building could be dated back to the end of the period of Lombard domination in the 7th century.

圣玛丽亚安提卡教堂采用罗马式风格,可追溯至1185年,在1117年地震后进行了重建。原来建筑的历史可以追溯到7世纪伦巴第统治时期的末期。

The church has a small bell tower with three bells cast during the 17th century ringing in the Veronese syle.

教堂有一座小钟楼,钟楼上是17世纪铸造的钟,也是维罗纳式的钟鸣风格。

Casa di Romeo

‘Two households, both alike in dignity, In fair Verona, where we lay our scene ‘; this is the prologue from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. For visitors especially lovers, it is meaningful to follow the steps of Romeo and Juliet and visit their houses. This is the house of Romeo located in an alley, just behind the Scala Family tombs. It looks like a brick castle.

“故事发生在维罗纳名城,有两家门第相当的巨族,” 这是莎士比亚的《罗密欧与朱丽叶》的序幕。对于游客尤其是情人来说,追寻罗密欧与朱丽叶的足迹并参观他们的房子意义非凡的。这里是罗密欧之家,位于斯卡拉家族陵墓后面的一条小巷中。它看起来就像一座砖制城堡。

In Shakespear’s play Act 1, Romeo has tested Juliet’s feeling towards him using the metaphor, he said ‘ If I profane with my unworthiest hand This holy shrine, the gentle sin is this: My lips, two blushing pilgrims, ready stand To smooth that rough touch with a tender kiss. He uses the metaphors of shrine, and pilgrim which is romantic in the poetry.

在莎士比亚的戏剧第一幕中,罗密欧用暗喻试探了朱丽叶对他的感觉,他说“要是我这俗手上的尘污亵渎了你的神圣的庙宇,这两片嘴唇,含羞的朝圣者,愿意用一吻乞求你宥恕。” 他使用神圣的庙宇和朝圣者的比喻,这在诗歌中是非常浪漫的。

Casa di Giulietta

This is the Juliet’s house with the most romantic balcony in the world.  It was a beautiful Gothic style house from the 14th century. The city of Verona bought the house from the Dal Capello family in 1905 and made it to be a touriste attraction. It was said that the lovers who write down their love vows and stick them on the wall of the house will stay together for the rest of their lives.

这是朱丽叶之家,据说拥有世界上最浪漫的阳台。这是一栋14世纪美丽的哥特式房屋。维罗纳市于1905年从Dal Capello家族手中购买了这所房子,并成为旅游胜地。据说,书写下爱之誓言并将其贴在房屋墙壁上的恋人将白头偕老。

In Shakespear’s play Act 1, Juliet answered Romeo with metaphor as well, ‘ Good pilgrim, you do wrong your hand too much, Which mannerly devotion shows in this;
For saints have hands that pilgrims’ hands do touch, And palm to palm is holy palmers’ kiss.’

在莎士比亚的戏剧第一幕中,朱丽叶也用一个暗喻回答了罗密欧 “ 朝圣者,莫把你的手侮辱,这样才是最虔诚的礼敬,神明的手本许信徒接触,掌心的密合远胜如亲吻。”

The so called Juliet balcony actually never existed. It was famous because there was the well known scene ‘ when the moon shone unusually bright, that whilst Romeo was climbing the balcony, the young lady … opened the window … After this they have a conversation in which they declare eternal love to each other. ‘

所谓的朱丽叶阳台实际上从未存在过。之所以出名是因为有一个众所周知的场景,“当月亮照得异常明亮时,罗密欧爬到朱丽叶的阳台上,朱丽叶为他打开了窗户…之后,他们山盟海誓,在天愿作比翼鸟,在地愿为连理枝。”

Of course people are willing to talk delighly of this romantic story for thousands of years and Verona have attracted many touristes looking for romance because of this. There is a bronze statue of Juliet in the small courtyard of the house. It is believed that touching the right breast of  the statue will bring luck to all who are trying to find their true love.

当然,人们长久以来都愿意漫谈这个浪漫的故事,因此维罗纳吸引了众多追寻浪漫的游客。朱丽叶之家的小院子里有朱丽叶的青铜雕像。据说轻轻触摸雕像的右胸会给所有遍寻天下追求真爱的人带来好运。

Ponte Pietra

When I walked northwards, I arrived at the river side of the Adige River. The five-arch bridge was originally built in the 16th but it was destroyed during the second world war. The bridge nowadays was restored in 1959 based on previous design. It was also a testimony of the city’s history.

当我继续向北走时,我到达了阿迪杰河的河边。五眼拱桥最初建于16世纪,但在第二次世界大战期间被摧毁。如今,这座桥于1959年按照原样进行了修复。它也是这座城市历史的见证。

I took this picture on the stone bridge. The sight of the city from the bridge has brought my memory to the time of reading Shakespear’s Romeo and Juliet. Shakespear has never gone to Verona in his life but he could write such a good story and whelm so many readers in the world. For me I was lucky enough to visit this wonderful land under the pens of Shakespear. My life is always full of imagination and travel is like a way to convert rich imagination to reality.

我在石桥上拍了这张照片。从桥上眺望城市的风景,勾起了我对读莎士比亚的《罗密欧与朱丽叶》时的回忆。莎士比亚一生从未到过维罗纳,但他可以写出如此出色的作品,并感动了世界上如此多的读者。对我而言,我很幸运能游览这个莎士比亚笔下的神奇土地。我的生活中总是充满了想象力,而旅行就是一种将丰富想象力转化为现实的一种方法。